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Category: acquired things

Specialized Avatar Comp Gel

I’ve really been enjoying riding the Jamis Nova, but as mentioned earlier I picked up a Specialized Avatar Comp Gel to try instead of the Specialized Phenom that’s been giving me issues. Today I headed out for a gravel road ride with Carlos and Lee and gave it a proper outdoor ride, and I’m quite happy with it. I spent 3-4 miles getting comfortable on it, but once I found a nice spot things were good.

We rode ~66.1 miles (Strava) of mixed pavement, gravel/dirt roads, and rail trail and I never really felt a need to stand up and stretch my butt muscles. The Avatar also felt a bit more conducive to being leaned over further, something that’s generally better for the drop bar bike geometry.

I did have one new problem with my index finger on my right hand being half-numb after the ride, a fair sign of nerve injury. This hadn’t happened to me before, so I suspect the new saddle has me positioned so I grip the bars differently than before. I think this means I need to work on the bar positioning a bit more…

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2013-2014 Trainer Season Setup

Thanks to a friendly person from the MMBA Forum I was able to pick up a low cost Dimension (QBP #WE8677) rear wheel for use with the Jamis Nova when it is fitted to the trainer. Combined with an CycleOps Fluid 2 Trainer that I picked up a couple of years ago, a CycleOps-branded Trainer Tire (Kenda manufactured), and a barely used cassette from eBay†, and a Continental tube (recommended by Ron at Fraser Bicycle and Fitness for trainer use due to high heat tolerance) this should allow me to swap the bike on and off trainer quickly. Unlike my previous setup I won’t have to swap tires, which should make this bike more useful overall.

When on longer rides I’d been not-quite-happy with the Specialized Phenom saddle that I love for mountain biking, so I also picked up a Specialized Avatar Comp Gel to try out. After a bit of fiddling it seems like it’ll be okay, but I think an extended session on the trainer and a proper ride outside will be needed before I decide if it’ll work or not. With the time change this weekend I can only hope that there’s a good time for another long dirt road ride soon…

I’m not really looking forward to trainer season, but sometimes I need a bit of exercise, don’t want to venture outside, and thus find the trainer worthwhile. When used in conjunction with TrainerRoad and something decent on the TV it’s really not too bad, and I feel good when I’m done.

† The trainer wheel has the original Shimano CS-5600 cassette that came with the Jamis Nova on it; the normal wheel will get the nearly-new one from eBay.

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King Cage / Tallac Design Kargo Cage

I’ve been having difficulties carrying everything I want on my Jamis Nova without putting it in jersey pockets. An under-saddle bag is working okay, but fully filled it occasionally brushes my thighs, which is rather uncomfortable. I also don’t really care for putting things in my jersey pockets, so I decided to try out a King Cage Kargo Cage (same product on Tallac Design’s site), mounting it on the down tube (alternate view).

This device is a combination stainless steel bottle cage and tool pouch holder, with the pouch being large enough to hold a tube and other bits. I chose the larger 9″ size designed to hold a 29er tube, as I figured I could use the extra 2″ of pouch length for things besides a tube. In the photo above I have it carrying a road tube (inside an old sock), Novara patch kit (with chain links inside), and two Park Tool TL-1 tire levers, zipped shut with the zipper pull tucked inside. I’ll probably add some nitrile gloves later, and maybe a small bottle of chain lube.

The pouch itself, manufactured by Tallac Design, snaps nicely to nylon straps which are mounted to the screws between the frame and cage itself. This holds it firmly in place and with a nice, sleep look. Unsnapping the bag is not the fastest operation so it will be a bit difficult to remove, but I intentionally chose for it to hold the supplies that I rarely need (but really don’t want to be without on longer rides), so this shouldn’t be a problem.

The model of Kargo Cage seen here is a newer design than the one pictured on both the King Cage and Tallac Design sites, as it has snaps instead of plastic buckles. I have slight concerns over the snaps rusting, but a light coating of grease on them will hopefully mitigate this. The snap setup seems simpler than the plastic buckles, and it seems like the bag could sag with the previous design whereas this one seems a bit more solid. Because the snaps sit next to the frame and brush it as the bike is jostled I put a piece of UHMW polyethylene tape on the frame behind the snap to eliminate scratching and cut down on potential noise.

It remains to be seen how useful this Kargo Cage is for me long-term, but I have high hopes for it. I am slightly concerned about how it sticks out about 2cm to each side of the down tube (photo) as I suspect it’ll catch a lot of dust and mud, but being vinyl-lined it should be washable. I need to leave it on the downtube for now, as the longer 9″ bag length keeps it from fitting on the seat tube without getting very close to the front derailleur. I’ve emailed Tallac Design (who makes the bag piece of it) asking if I can buy a separate 7″ bag so I can try it on the seat tube and see how that goes. It might also be useful to have two separate bags that I can swap out depending on the kind of ride that I’m doing.

Even with this I’ll still likely keep a small seat bag on the bike, but I only intend that to hold my keys, wallet, multi-tool, and any other small incidentals. Or, I might just put these items in jersey pockets. By moving the tube and repair supplies to the frame I’m allowing the saddle bag (or what is carried in pockets) to be smaller and more useful, while allowing the tube to be sock-wrapped to cut down on wear during storage (as other parts rub against it in the bag). There wasn’t enough room for this before.

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Clement X’Plor USH 120 TPI

On Joe Seidl’s recommendation I picked up a set of Clement X’Plor USH for the Jamis Nova. While I’d originally intended to get the 60 TPI version, QBP being out of stock and a convenient find (just in time for a planned long ride) resulted in my getting a 120 TPI set. I’m not sure how much the difference matters, but I don’t mind the more supple casing even if it came at a slightly higher price.

At 80 PSI on the 622-14 Ritchey Silhouette Comp rims that came with the bike the casing measures 32mm wide and to the outer edge of the knobs it measures just about 35mm. The solid center and file tread sides of this tire really appeals to me, as it looks good for mixed pavement / dirt road / rail trail riding; exactly what I intend the Jamis to be used for.

Using the charts in Frank Bertro’s article All About Tire Inflation (mirror) I put the pressure at 65 PSI and went for a test ride from home up to 51 North in Lake Orion, meeting some friends part way. Since I was early to meeting Erik and Kristi in Rochester I poked around Bloomer for a bit, including riding some low/flat parts of the mountain bike route. This gave me the chance to try these tires out on pavement, smooth crushed limestone, looser gravel, sand, light mud, and some damp clay. On each of these surfaces this tire behaved exactly as it felt like it should, with no surprises, and much nicer than the Serfas Seca did when I tried taking it off road at Island Lake.

Thus far I’m really happy with this tire. It seems to be a great all-around tire for this area, and as long as it keeps performing as it did tonight I’ll be happy. There’s still the question of longevity, but that’ll clearly take some time.

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Heyco 2590 for Bicycle Accessory Holes

Along with replacing the rim strips and tubes on my fatbike to save weight I decided to see if I could find a suitable hole filler for accessory mount (eg: water bottle, rack, etc – photo) holes on the bike frame. Some digging turned up Heyco Dome Plugs Part No. 2590 (PDF) and they are a perfect fit. Ordered from Mouser (Part # 836-2950 – photo) they cost $0.13/ea ($0.09/ea in 100 piece quantities) and snap snugly into mount holes. Removing them may be a bit of a pain, but a pick or serrated needle nose pliers will likely pull them right out.

By replacing 13 of the cap head stainless steel screws on my fatbike I cut 45g off of the bike’s mass. (The screws were 46g, and 15 of the dome plugs registered as 1g on my scale.)

While I’m not particularly concerned about such a small savings on the fatbike, I’m glad to find a cost effective item which can be used to fill accessory mount holes and prevent extra snow and water and such from getting in. I think they also look a bit nicer than simply leaving the holes empty, and don’t have the add-lots-of-shiny-stuff look (photo) that filling the holes with screws gives.

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2007 Jamis Nova

This past weekend I picked up a cyclocross bike from my friend Ryan. He’d had this bike for a while, but it was a bit small for him and he’d been wanting to sell it. He heard that I’d been looking for a road-ish bike, and one thing led to another and we met at the Tree Farm for a ride and I went home with a new-to-me bike, an almost stock 2007 Jamis Nova.

That afternoon I picked up a TIMBUK2 Bike Seat Pack XT to hold tools, a Topeak Road MasterBlaster frame pump, added a Garmin mount, fitted my preferred saddle and pedals, and set out for a ride on the Macomb Orchard Trail. It was this ride that really sold me on the bike. Before this I had very little experience with drop bars and bikes with smooth tires, but 23 miles of pavement showed me that this kind of riding can be quite a bit of fun and that I’m extremely glad Ryan sold me this bike.

Over the following two evenings I set about getting familiar with the bike, and ended up giving it a very detailed cleaning, replacing the derailleur housing and cables, and getting everything set up for me. I’ve still got some playing (and a lot of reading) to do with the bar position, but for now I think I’ve got it somewhere that’s comfortable.

As mentioned before, this bike is almost completely stock, with the exception of the tires and front shift/brake lever. At one point the front lever broke, and the shop gave the option of either waiting for a new 105-level component (to match the rest of the bike) to come in, or having it immediately replaced with a Tiagra-level part. The Tiagra part was chosen, so the levers don’t match. The feel for the two is very similar with the hoods being practically identical, and being the front shifter any potential difficulties with a lower-level part don’t concern me.

I’m planning on swapping tires to some Clement X’Plor USH tires that Joe Seidl recommended to me, and whose 35mm width, solid center and file tread sides look quite appealing. While I opted for the cheaper 60 TPI version, I hope (and based on reviews suspect) that these’ll do nicely for mixed pavement and gravel road riding.

Everything is now set up as I want it for a longer ride on the bike, so I’m hoping to get out on a 30-50 mile ride before the weekend is out. If things go as planned, I may try to fit this in Friday evening along with picking up the tires from Trail’s Edge. It looks like I’ll be able to ride from downtown Milford out to Island Lake by way of Kensington Metropark. This might be worth doing, should time permit…

If you’d like to see more photos of this new bike, they can be found here: Jamis Nova.

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Removing 1.3 Pounds of Rotating Weight

Spending less than $30 I was able to remove 1.3 pounds of rotating weight from my fatbike. How? By replacing the Surly Toob and Rim Strip with lighter weight parts. Namely, a Kenda-manufactured Q-Tubes Superlight 26 x 2.4-2.75″ tube and some 2.25″ wide red polyester ribbon (photo). I decided to try these parts out after reading a number of forum threads about fatbike weight savings and discussing it with some local friends. This technique/setup is pretty well tested and should work out nicely.

I simply removed the heavier parts, looped some ribbon snugly over the rim holding it in place with a bit of gaffer tape (photo), and put the wheels back together with the Superlights. The significantly lighter tubes filled the tires evenly and the woven ribbon seems to be doing a fine job keeping the tube away from the nipples and edges of the holes in the rims.

For now I don’t see any reason why these lighter weight parts shouldn’t hold up as well as the originals. I suspect that having lighter weight wheels (especially with the weight savings coming from the outer edge) will be noticeable as well, particularly when accelerating.

Weight (or mass) for each of the components involved in this can be seen here:

Actual Original New Delta
R. Wheel 9.20 lb 8.56 lb 0.64 lb
F. Wheel 7.60 lb 6.94 g 0.66 lb
R. Tube 464 g 227 g 237 g
F. Tube 460 g 229 g 231 g
R. Strip 83 g 11 g 72 g
F. Strip 84 g 11 g 73 g

Calculations based on the mass of the strips and tubes showed that there should have been slightly more savings (0.68 lb and 0.67 pounds for rear and front wheels, respectively), but I figure the difference is from the air put into the wheels. Using the rear wheel as an example Wolfram Alpha shows 36g (~0.4 lb) of air as having 28.2L of volume, which sounds about right, as I had the rear wheel inflated to ~30 PSI (to ensure the tire gets seated on the bead) when putting it on the scale.

Update (May 26, 2014): I experienced my first failure of this system. I’ll keep an eye on it, but there’ll be a little more maintenance required in the future because these tubes appear to fail early on due to exposure or overstreaching. Read about this here.

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Eight Grams of Security

When riding at Yankee Springs two weekends ago I thought I identified the cause of some bike noise on my Salsa El Mariachi Ti: the rear skewer. After trying out an old Shimano XT skewer from another bike during some local rides it held solid, and Lumberjack seems to have proven it out. I was subsequently able to acquire a new Shimano M770 skewer (so the old one can go back on the old bike) and I’ll use this one instead of the Salsa Flip-Off that came on the bike. This comes at a whopping eight gram penalty (55g for the Salsa Flip-Off vs. 63g for the Shimano M770), which I think is worth it for a more secure rear skewer.

I’m actually quite surprised that I had difficulties with the Salsa skewer as the other two that I own have been very solid. I suspect it has a bit to do with the way the rear triangle flexes, so maybe the different cam design of the Shimano (which I believe to be easier to get very tight) is what’s needed. A through-axle would be another good way to sidestep this, but I don’t have a TA-compatible rear wheel, so I can’t do that yet…

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Warranty Replacement Garmin GSC 10

I’m a strong proponent of using a Garmin GSC 10 Speed/Cadence Sensor to eliminate under-measurement when using a Garmin Edge 500 bike computer. When I found the GSC 10 on my Salsa El Mariachi single speed to have stopped recording wheel revolutions I was a bit disappointed. I didn’t really want to spend $40 – $50 on another one, so I phoned Garmin and asked about a replacement.

I found that the reed switch on the extended arm (the part that detects wheel rotation) would only intermittently trigger if a large neodymium magnet was rubbed on it. Tapping on it didn’t free up the apparently sticky reed switch either, so I figured it to be dead.

Garmin has been good to me in the past about warranty issues (namely, replacing an Garmin eTrex Legend whose input stick ceased working) so I decided to give them a call. After talking with the phone support person for a few minutes and explaining the problem he agreed that it seemed defective and offered to send out another. It arrived today, and now my single speed has a working sensor again and should properly measure distance on trails.

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