This was purchased brand new from the Dollar Tree located at M-59 and Mound. Yes, it will be useful for something… But still…
(It turns out that the service port on the back of my new TV (photo gallery retired) has an A port and needs a cable like this for diagnostics / firmware upgrades.)
UPDATE: Also, please Digg this.
This is what happens when someone puts a cheap chromed tailpipe cover on a car: it gets rusty and ugly and difficult to remove.
Danielle’s car had one of these tailpipe covers on it, and knowing for a few weeks that she would really prefer it to be gone, I removed it. The two screws holding it in place were quite tough to remove, but I was still able to get them out with a screwdriver and a bit of elbow grease. I’m really surprised they hadn’t seized.
At least that’s sorted out. Now to sort out dinner… Thai food, maybe.
So, I’m really tempted to pick up a new scope. I’ve got a piece of crap Goldstar (I believe) analog scope I picked up off of eBay for $70 shipped a few years back. While it’s okay for making pretty pictures I’ve been having problems actually using it to test things. For example, when checking out the Alien DAC (photo gallery retired) I couldn’t really see the test patterns I was playing through it over the noise from the scope and probes.
I’ve been looking at one of the new Tektronix TDS1002B scopes. It is a 2-channel, 60MHz, 1GS/sec scopes with monochrome LCD display (image). It’s also got USB ports with support for dumping images to mass storage devices or printing straight to PictBridge compatible printers. (Also, the first good use I’ve heard of for PictBridge… Normally I think of it as a digital camera feature which no one really uses.)
The price for the TDS1002B from Tequipment.net is $1009.80, and I’d probably need to pick up a probe or two as well. I’m still poking around Tek’s site to see if the scope does everything I want, in particular communication with PCs to make sharing of the data easier, but it looks like it will.
Now I’ll just need to budget for it.
So, I think I’ve been an unwilling participant in some sort of fraudulent eBay activity, and I’ve strangely actually benefited. I think.
First I’ll just give you a timeline of things:
– Back on September 4th I listed my Sequentix P3 for auction on eBay under auction number 290157675079. This auction went well, eventually being sold for US1805.00
– Payment was received from the buyer via PayPal from a verified account and the address matched the one sent to me from eBay, so everything looked good. I withdrew the money from PayPal and everything seemed fine.
– The P3 was sent via UPS tracking number 1ZT915V20390002211.
– Package was received, seller let me know, mutual feedback was exchanged, everything seemed good.
– Suddenly, on 29-Sep-2007 I received a note from eBay stating that:
Dear c0nsumer (c0nsumer@nuxx.net),The results of the following listing(s) have been cancelled due to bidding activity that took place without the account owner’s authorization:
290157675079 Sequentix P3 Analogue Sequencer w/ MemX (Analog)
We have cancelled the listing(s) to maintain the integrity of the eBay site, your account, and the bidder’s account that was accessed. We are working to restore the bidding account to its rightful owner, and we are working with the account owner to prevent any additional unauthorized activity. Since the account owner did not initiate these bids, all fees resulting from the listings in question will be credited to your account within 7 days. If you do not see the credits posted to your account after 7 days, please feel free to contact us through ?Contact Us? in our Help section.
At this point the fees for the Sequentix P3 auction were refunded to my eBay account, so I now have a balance of -$46.03. The auction itself is gone, and the buyer’s account seemed to be deleted. However, the positive feedback was still reflected on my account
– Suddenly on 02-Oct-2007 I see a new auction up on eBay, 270172361341, which is for a Sequentix P3, using a copy and paste of my auction description along with some of my photos. The seller was from California and the account was brand new. (Listing day creation, zero feedback.)
– A few days later I check again and the seemingly fraudulent new P3 auction has been pulled, and the account for the user who originally bought my P3 is activated again.
So, I’m not really sure what was going on. I’ve heard nothing about disputed payments or non-received items, so everything seems good from my end. At first I thought that maybe the person who bought the P3 from me was actually some sort of eBay scamming middleperson, and then it was being resold for a hopeful profit. She didn’t really fit the profile of someone who’d normally buy a high-end sequencer. (Fourty-something real estate salesperson from rural New York with no eBay history of buying other musical instruments.)
But, maybe she was just buying it for someone else.
I’m just not sure what’s going on here… I guess there’s also the chance that she legitimately bought the P3, her account was stolen, some previous auctions were canceled, including the one from me.
On the upside I’ve now got a $40-some credit with eBay. It’s too bad that I can’t actually recover that credit back to PayPal.
Southeast Lower Tahquamenon FallsAs mentioned previously, Danielle and I headed up to Tahquamenon Falls State Park in northern Michigan this past weekend. I guess I don’t have too much to say about it, except that it was a nice weekend.
In short, as I remember the UP is much like many of the scary southern states, except without the accent. There are loads of pretty parts, good food is hard to find (Pickelman’s Pantry was not very good), and long distances between things. There were lots of nifty things around the park to look at, including the falls themselves, hiking trails, multicolored mushrooms, puffballs, and people who don’t know how to row.
I found the gift shop particularly interesting, especially the wall of fantasy figures in the gift shop. I guess the 80s have finally reached the UP.
Hmm, I’m going to stop now and state that I’ll likely make a lengthier post tonight or tomorrow. For now I’m feeling a bit hungry, so I want to get home and eat. Finishing captioning the photos was the last thing on my to-do list, and now that it’s done I’m happy.
If you’d like to look through the photos, just click here (photo gallery retired).
Here, have a PCB layout that I think it almost complete. I need to validate some parts and be sure the drivers work as I expect, but beyond that it should be all set.
Now I’ll be able to switch inputs on a headphone amp without plugging / unplugging things. Yay!
Well, these should make camping a little more interesting. Based on the descriptions they appear to be from menu year 2006. These are designed to provide 1250 kcal (Calories, as we know them) per meal and taste good enough that they don’t degrade morale. The last time I ate an MRE was in the mid-80s when my dad brought one back from either Panama or Honduras (wherever he was deployed at the time) and I ate a cold patty of what was essentially spam. I always really did like the dehydrated fruit, though.
I suspect these will be better, with the two menus as follows:
(Left) MENU NO. 14: VEGETABLE MANICOTTI
Vegetable Manicotti, Pound Cake, Wet Pack Fruit, Peanut Butter, Crackers, Cocoa (Hazelnut), Hot Sauce, Accessory Packet B, Spoon, Flameless Heater, Hot Beverage Bag
(Right) MENU NO. 12: VEGGIE BURGER WITH BBQ SAUCE
Veggie Burger w/BBQ Sauce, Dried Fruit, Chocolate Banana Muffin Top, Wheat Snack Bread (2), Potato Sticks, Beverage Base (CHO Fortified), Hot Sauce, Accessory Packet B, Spoon, Flameless Heater, Hot Beverage Bag
Of course, ACCESSORY PACK B contains:
Tea (Instant w/ Sweetener & Lemon Flavor), Salt, Chewing Gum, Matches, Toilet Tissue, Hand Cleaner
I don’t expect them to be good, but I think they’ll at least be decent. Unless I intend to eat about a gallon of soup, four Tasty Bite entrees, a pound of oat bran, and a pound of dried blueberries on top of these MREs I’ve way over-packed food wise for camping. That’s okay, at least there will be variety. It all fit within a pretty small box, anyway.
More info on MREs and other pre-packaged military rations from all around the world can be found here. By the way, it’s worthwhile for you to order a few cases of civilian MREs for survival food.
In a disaster situation two cases would safely feed you for two weeks, and the waterproof-ness ensures they will last through some pretty awful weather. The only down side is that, unlike the ones pictuerd above, the civilian ones don’t contain the heaters in the pouch.
(UPDATE: This has been reworded to not sound like crap.)
I’m looking for an IC, but having a hard time figuring out exactly which one does what I need.
Here’s what I need it to do:
Have five inputs which are connected to five pins on a microcontroller. Have one common input connected to +5VDC. (This could be common with Vcc for the IC.) When one of the five input pins goes high or low, the common input is connected to or disconnected from the output. The point of this is so that I can provide / sink more current than the microcontroller can handle.
My original idea was just to use five NPN transistors, but I figured I could find something in the form of a single IC and make assembly easier.
This is going to be used to drive some relays and LEDs. I could do it with discreet transistors, but that seems clunky and harder to solder.
What sort of part do I look for, or which data / catalog sheets can I pour over to find something like this?
Yay! I just finished porting the software for my PIC-based audio input switch to the PIC16F630. Earlier this afternoon I got it feature-complete and worked out all the bugs I could find, then in the last half hour or so I got it running on the new chip.
Tonight I hope to get it working with internal pullups (should be trivial) and then I’ll give the power supply design some thought, along with initial parts selection for the PCB itself.
Since I haven’t mentioned it here before, it’s:
– 2-5 input audio selection switch (configurable via jumpers)
– Relays for switching audio
– Fail-safe design
– Switches balanced or unbalanced audio
– Next / Previous buttons
– Mute function
– Saves input to ROM so that last state is restored at power-on
– MIT-licensed software
I’ll post more info later. Now it’s time to go home and meet up with Danielle for dinner.
My Tent In The Garage, Covered In Nikwax Tent & Gear ProofMy garage and part of my house smell vaguely of white glue, which is what Nikwax Tent & Gear Proof smells like. Since Danielle and I are going camping at Tahquamenon Falls State Park this weekend, and there is the remote possibility of rain (there always is, eh?) I wanted to waterproof my tent. Most of the areas which needed waterproofing were the seams, but I made sure to spray the whole thing down. Also, after letting it sit for a bit and soak in I wiped the whole thing down with a damp cloth, which seemed to do a good job of helping the waterproofing further penetrate the fabric.
After the job was done I tried to wash my hands, but they just became sticky and the water beaded up on them. Neither acetone or denatured alcohol would remove the chemical from my hands, so I took to dry scrubbing them with sodium percarbonate (Oxyclean). This seemed to do a good job, and then soap was able to remove the remaining slick C2H6Na4O12 residue. My hands still feel like they have a bit of the waterproofing compound left in them. Hopefully it’ll come out in the shower tomorrow.
We had originally thought about taking Danielle’s larger tent (see them both here), but we only had one 500mL bottle of waterproofing and the rainfly on hers seems to have a greater surface area than my whole tent. I’m glad I didn’t try waterproofing hers…
Hopefully the weather will cooperate. We’ll have the air mattress to sleep on, sheets and blankets, and (with any luck) a dry weekend.
