Category: making things

Up to this point I’d used an old tube cable-tied on for chainstay protection and it has worked out pretty well. Recently I’d been reading about 3M’s Scotch 2228 Rubber Mastic Tape for the same purpose, and when doing some spring cleaning on the Titus I decided to give it a go.

At $5.57/roll (1″ wide x 4′ long, found at Lowes) it wasn’t as cheap as a tube, but like the UHMW tape it’s far less than a specific commercial solution and looks much better. The tape comes on a paper-backed roll and sticks nicely to the frame like other materials, but the magic happens when the tape is laid on itself: it fuses together and becomes essentially a solid piece of rubber. This means that it cannot be removed once applied and one must get the initial installation right, but I found that peeling the tape off the backing just as it was wrapped worked nicely, tearing away the resulting strip of paper as it got too long.

After application the surface of the tape is very slightly tacky after application meaning that dust and lint readily sticks to it, but a quick wipe-down with glass cleaner removed this and seemed to seal the surface. I suspect that within a couple weeks it’ll be more similar to a rubber tube. The directions on the box recommend overwrapping it with electrical tape, but for bicycle uses I don’t think this’ll be necessary. To ensure that it was well stuck and fused I spent some time squeezing it snug against itself, and while doing this it only seemed to bind better.

The tape is to be stretched when installed, but with a base thickness of 1.65mm when half-lapped it builds up fairly quickly, ending up thicker than the wrapped tube I’d previously used. The one roll perfectly fit the chainstay, and I ended up finishing unrolling it just as I got near the end, so with a little bit of stretching it wrapped around and seated nicely. Here is another view of how it came out. There is another 3M / Scotch product, 2229 which is the same material but 3.2mm thick, but I think it’d be overkill for this application. Building up to 5-6mm of rubber (once stretched) will possibly contribute to clearance issues.

Time will tell if it holds up as nicely as cable-tied tube, but thus far I’m happy with this choice. It matches the frame nicely, is thicker than a tube, installed reasonably easily, was affordably priced, and was available locally.

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In order to set up my bicycle tires as tubeless I needed a way to get lots of air into them as quickly as possible to pop them on to the bead. After experimenting with pumps and various blow gun nozzle setups I decided to try and make something more effective. Inspired by a tool that I saw at Rochester Bike Shop I put this together: a modified blow gun fitted with a Schrader valve tire connector that’s had its check valve removed and the gasket replaced with a slightly smaller one.

 

The result is an inflater which’ll fit snugly enough around the body of a coreless Stan’s NoTubes valve to seat a tire and can also be used with a Presta to Schrader adapter.

The parts used for this were as follows, all purchased from either a local hardware store or at Performance Line Tool Center:

· Milton S 153 Blo-Gun ($9.99)
· Milton S 699 Air Chuck ($1.99)
· 5/16″ Compression to 1/4″ NPT Adapter ($3.49)
· 1/4″ Rubber Washer ($0.59)
· Quick Disconnect for Air Line (Had at home.)

First, the blower tube and rubber head were removed from the handle/valve. The compression to NTP adapter was then fitted into the body, as the compression threaded side of the adapter was the closest reasonable fit that could be found. The air chuck was then fitted to the NPT thread on the other end of the adapter. The compression nut and ring are not needed.

Next the air chuck is opened by unscrewing the brass ring around its opening and the check valve from inside was removed. Removing this allows the assembly to expel air whenever the lever is depressed. The center of a 1/4″ rubber washer is then slightly enlarged using a stepped drill bit so that it fit tightly over the body of a Presta valve. This modified washer is put in the chuck in place of the original, and the chuck is now usable for coreless Presta or Schrader valves.

Finally a quick disconnect that fit my air hose was installed and the tool was ready to use.

With this I had no problems airing up a newer (but still old tread pattern) Schwalbe Racing Ralph and a somewhat used Kenda Small Block Eight on my newish Blunt SL-based wheels. I’m still working on finishing up the tubeless setup, but this tool really helped get it done easily.

Were I to build another one of these valves I’d probably do it with a Milton 151 instead, as it’s a simple lever valve body with 1/4″ NPT fittings on each end. It’d then be easier (and cheaper) to set up the chuck, as a simple 1/4″ NPT to 1/4″ NPT nipple of whatever length desired could be used. This part wasn’t available (or known) to me at the time, so I made do with what I could find. Total cost was less than $20, and it should last for as long as I need it.

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For a while now I’ve lamented that, while they do a nice job of illustrating the whole of the park, the park provided maps for Addison Oaks don’t show the mountain bike trail route very well. After a meeting with park management it was decided that a new map of the MTB route would be nice, and over the last week I spent some time gathering GPS data at the park and drawing up the map you see above: CRAMBA‘s Addison Oaks Mountain Bike Route Map.

When drawing this map I was working with the following intentions:

· Make the MTB route easy to find for new users to the park.
· Provide sufficient landmarks (mile markers, water tower, RC plane field, cell tower, lakes, etc) to make it easy for a new user to locate themselves along the route.
· Illustrate where the MTB route interacts with other marked routes, such as equestrian trail crossings and segments shared with marked equestrian and hiking routes.
· Allow the map to be used alongside the park-provided maps by including common reference points.
· Produce a map that is readable when printed in B&W or color.

I think that this map meets these intentions. There will, of course, be versions released after this as stuff changes around and points for improvement are identified, but I’m pretty happy with the result thus far. Hopefully others will find it useful.

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