Fuses!
Start of the Honda CD Changer Protocol Test Rig(Click for bigger image…)
I also can’t seem to power up the car stereo that I have for testing the Honda Music Link stuff. It’s not working. I hear a faint click from the supply as it starts up, then a loud CLICK from the head unit (sounds like the tape deck doing something), then it starts over again. I think it’s not enough power…
That supply is rated for 3A, but I’ve got no idea what the stereo pulls. I figured 3A would be enough, but I’m not sure. I’ve got the keyed and always-on power lines connected at the same time, though, so maybe the inrush current of starting the entire stereo is too much. Maybe I’ll throw a switch on the keyed side of the line and see if that sorts it out. If not, I might just go buy or borrow a car battery charger. That should give a good 10A. If that’s not enough, something in the stereo is likely wrong.
My new amp also keeps blowing fuses, and I’m not sure why. Previously the only time I could make it do this when tubes were pulled, but now it seems to happen with them fitted. It’s frustrating. Either I’ve got misaligned tube holes (they look pretty good) or else something else is wrong. I’m almost tempted to try a different set of tubes.
Part of me is tempted to build a solid state headphone amp (β22 / σ22 combo) and use that instead, but that’d be a lot of work, and I’ve got other projects to do right now. Or maybe I’ll build one of these and use it as a speaker amp with some nice near field monitors in my office. That’d be excellent.
You are probably right about the 3A. For comparison my head unit (stock Mitsubishi) is a 35X4, cd player / radio unit (no tape), hits ~3.2A when I turn it on on about 3/10 volume full volume.
Wow. Good to hear… I think I’ll… Hrm. Maybe I know someone with a car battery charger.