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Not Just The Numbers

Recently I was working on a high visibility end user problem with computer performance that ended up having a somewhat-unexpected cause: the laptop’s external power supply.

For months this person had been complaining of serious performance issues with a JavaScript-heavy websites that he needed to get his job done, and despite numerous technicians taking a look at the machine, none were able to fix it. In attempts to resolve the issue he’d been given new hardware, switched from a 32-bit to 64-bit OS, and had his user profile (all settings) reset to defaults more than once, to no avail. By the time the case got to me he was quite frustrated as fault was now being assigned to his data and the websites he was accessing, so I set up a meeting so he could show me the problem and talk through what’s going on. I hoped to get a better understanding of what he was doing and what was occurring to see what I could do for him.

After some cursory remote poking to check the laptop’s capabilities and be sure the it seemed stable we sat down and talked. He showed me what was clearly unacceptable performance, explained how the issue only seems to occur when he’s in the office at his desk, sometimes when at remote sites, and never when he’s connected via VPN. Seeing a nicely bundled set of cables behind his the monitor to which his laptop was connected I asked if he had a another power supply that he used when traveling, and if the one on his desk stays there.

That was it; the one on his desk was the cause. Newer Dell and HP business-class machines both use the same physical power connector and they’ll often charge each other’s devices, but depending on the laptop model, power supply model, and BIOS differences sometimes the  laptop will significantly scale back its performance. This is to save battery, allow charging on a limited supply, or (if you are conspiracy minded) steer people away from the use of third party power supplies. When in the office or at a borrowed desk at a remote site he was using a mismatched power supply, so the laptop would scale back its performance and the job-critical website would be unusable slow. Working from outside of company facilities (via VPN) he’d use the power supply that he carried with him — the one which shipped with the laptop –and performance was as expected.

When troubleshooting complicated problems like this it’s easy to fall into the trap of blaming user behavior, providence (the kind of data being stored), or the big mysterious technical places: bad hardware / software. The numbers. Sometimes one has to step back, sit down, talk to those involved, and look over the whole of the problem. Sometimes it’s as simple tab A being plugged into an incompatible slot C, but without stepping back and taking the user and his/her report into account this can be very hard to find.

Power supply model will even cause power scaling issues within the same brand if a given laptop requires, for example, a 90W supply and it is connected to a 65W supply. There is a POST prompt which warns the user of this, but sometimes users or technicians will see the laptop charging anyway (albeit at a lower rate) and disable it without realizing the consequences.

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Another Broken Spoke

I had the following bike problems this evening, in order:

  1. Riding up the sidewalk to Stony Creek with the group, a spoke breaks near the J bend. I stop and twist it around an adjacent spoke and decide to ride with it.
  2. Once I get into The Pines I notice the broken spoke nub is binding the freehub and keeping me from coasting. I leave the group and walk the bike out to the two track.
  3. Deciding that I can ride without coasting, I poke around Stony Creek two track for a while in a very tall gear constantly keeping the freehub engaged.
  4. After riding to the group’s meeting point at the end of the route I remove the wheel to get the spoke nub out; it’d already fallen out. Upon reinserting the rear wheel I find that the brake is now binding significantly.
  5. Looking in my bag I don’t have a multi-tool (nor spare tube) as I removed them for Sunday’s dirt road ride.

After the group arrived I was able to borrow a multi tool and get the wheel spinning freely again. I then rode an easy lap of The Pines and back to the car. Now I need to find a 295mm black DT Swiss Competition spoke and get everything back in order… Hopefully I can find one tomorrow, as I was really hoping to ride this bike over the weekend.

(I strongly suspect this spoke broke after being damaged during the chain dropping at Lumberjack. It then lasted for a while, but today after riding Bloomer and while applying torque up a paved path it decided to go. Better there than somewhere remote, at least…)

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Three Washers

By adding three washers to each end of the trainer quick release I’m able to keep the trainer from making contact with the frame on the Jamis Nova. Without these washers the ends of the mounting arms just barely contact the frame, and with the bike moving around while on the trainer I could see it causing a bit of paint flaking and/or damage over time.

I’ve got no interest in riding on the trainer now, but this was a problem that I wanted to resolve long before cold weather arrives, and now it’s done. I’ve also got a trainer tire and appropriately-small tube, so I should be ready to go whenever I decide that riding the trainer sounds fun. I can’t imagine that’ll be any time soon, though.

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New Holland Cap Font Changes

After purchasing a six pack of New Holland’s The Poet a couple days back I noticed that the font used inside of the caps has changed. It’s gone from the distressed font seen on the right (to and ing) to something much more boring (Tulipdone, and earthy).

Judging by the change to the markings on the plastic cap liner I suspect that the cap supplier changed as well. Perhaps they had greater restrictions on the fonts used for printing the inside of caps. Oh well.

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A Nicely Useful Outhouse

Today I rode my bicycle from home to my parents house, taking a dirt road route that I put together a couple days before. The ride went great, and the only difficulties I encountered were feeling a bit blah at the start, then having to ride on freshly graded roads for a while neat the end. The weather was excellent, traffic was light, and I had no problems with cars. The rotating cue sheet that I put together last night worked great, and I think I’ll use this technique for other rides in the future. I even happened across this conveniently located portable toilet in the construction zone on the southeast corner of Van Dyke and Boardman roads where I stopped for a few minutes and had a bit of home made protein bar to eat before carrying on.

At one point while heading north on Dequinder I was kept company by these tire marks, which seemed to alternate between Specialized The Captain and Maxxis CrossMark patterns. I think that two people, alternating position, must have ridden through there shortly before I did. Other than this, I didn’t encounter anyone else riding outside of parks or rail trails.

Other eventful things included: being near lots of cows, seeing a bunch of beautiful houses and orchards along Boardman, watching a crane stand in a fresh-cut lawn watching someone finish mowing, and being briefly chased by a dog. Mostly all good things.

Strava data for today’s ride can be found here.

 

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Rotating Bicycle Cue Sheet

I once saw a cue sheet like this somewhere online, so I figured I’d give it a go for tomorrow’s ride. I’m hoping that instead of the MOT I’ll be able to take dirt roads for a round-about path to my parents’ house in Richmond, and this illustrates the roads that I’m not already familiar with.

Instead of a flat page and some manner of holder this is a basic paper loop around the bars, listing turns one after another. It can then be hand-rotated to advance the list. I currently list the name of the road, which direction I should be going on it, and if it’s at the end of the previous road (a T intersection). Next time I may make the font smaller, better clarify the intersection type, and note the distance on each road.

While I could have put a cue sheet into my Garmin bike computer it takes a fair bit longer than printing a basic note, and when I last tried it with a slightly older Garmin (Edge 500 vs. my current 510) it wasn’t the most reliable, so I’m hesitant to try it again. The paper band has the limitation of font and bar size dictating the upper capacity limits, it’s not really waterproof (laser printing only goes so far), and it could get torn off. But it’s also super-easy to do.

Hopefully the ride will go as planned and the cue sheet will be a positive contribution.

UPDATE: This worked out very well. I’ll be using this cue sheet mounting technique in the future.

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New Rubber Stopper Time

After twelve years it is time to get a new rubber stopper for the laundry tub. The current one has begun decaying, and a couple weeks ago when attempting to push it out of the drain with a metal rod I poked a hole in it, destroying its traditional water stopping powers.

Now to find a replacement… Lowe’s was out of 1 1/2″ stoppers when I went there earlier today, and the universal stopper that I purchased doesn’t work. Time to try another store…

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Google Maps Bicycle Routing Issues

Google Map Maker allows most anyone to edit Google Maps. Someone has been using it to add all of the trails at Stony Creek, including the very small paths and foot-only trails. In general I’d think this is a good thing, but for some reason they are ending up being listed as bicycle routes. Some of these (such as the MTB single track) are inappropriate for general bicycle route designation due to their rugged character, while others (such as the Nature Center Trails) are simply closed to bikes.

While putting together some route ideas for a ride tomorrow I ran into my first actual issue with this; Bicycle routing directing me to the Nature Center hiking-only trails while making my way through the park. (See the image above or here.) While I know to avoid them, I suspect this is going to be a growing problem for some with finding bicycle routes in the area, particularly for those who aren’t willing (or prepared) to ride off road. I could also see it leading to conflicts with some users insisting it’s open to bikes “…because Google said so”.

Time to file some bug reports and get the bicycling designation removed…

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New Spark Plugs after 166358 Miles

My 2006 Honda Civic EX was probably a bit overdue for new spark plugs. I’d neglected this maintenance item for a while, but at 166358 miles it was long overdue. This evening I picked up four Autolite plugs on the way home and swapped them out. This was considerably easier than I expected.

I only ran into one small problem, when the rubber-lined spark plug socket would remain stuck to the plug deep inside the engine, popping off the extension as I tried to remove all of it. After unsuccessfully attempting to shim the extension in the socket I wrapped one turn of Gaffer’s tape around the assembly (photo) and this problem resolved. All plugs are installed, torqued to spec, with threads coated with copper-based anti-seize. It may have just been coincidental, but the car seemed to start quicker after replacing the plugs. Maybe it’ll run a bit better now, and if I’m lucky maybe I’ll get better mileage…

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FOX Racing Shox F29 O/C CTD Oil Replacement

My primary XC bike, a 2013 Salsa El Mariachi Ti, came fitted with what was listed as a Fox F29 CTD, Tapered, 15mm Thru Axle, 100mm fork. I was warned that newer FOX forks need oil replacements fairly frequently, so after long rides this spring I figured I should do some work on it, unlike my F29 RLC which I let go for years. Unlike the F29 RLC which I’d done previously, FOX doesn’t publish oil the replacement procedure on their consumer FOXHelp site, so I had to do a bit of digging to find a process that worked for me.

Having a sealed cartridge damper, and based on the recommendation from a helpful tech that I spoke to at FOX I decided that I’d leave the damper alone and just replace the oil in the lowers. Since it’s sealed there shouldn’t be any contamination, meaning that the oil in here doesn’t need to be changed nearly as often as in the rest of the fork. In the end I basically followed the F29 RLC/RL procedure, but because of the cartridge damper I had to put the oil in the bottom of the fork leg, which was a little tricky, but worked well in the end.

Here’s the rough process I followed which does not change the oil in the damper. By first understanding the F29 RLC/RL steps then looking over the O/C CTD design this becomes pretty obvious, and seems to worked out well. The major variance is steps 20-24, as previously oil would be added to the top of the damper before fitting the top cap and in these steps it is added through the bottom of the leg:

  1. Remove the fork from the bike.
  2. Write down the current fork rebound and pressure settings for easier setup next time.
  3. Remove screw from center of CTD selector. Put the lever in the Trail setting and hold it in place while removing the screw (don’t allow it to press hard against the stops).
  4. Remove the rebound knob from the bottom of the damper leg.
  5. Unscrew the nut from the bottom of the damper leg until it is flush end of the selector, tap with a dead blow hammer until it pops loose.
  6. Unscrew the top damper leg cap, lift the damper out. Drain oil from the leg and stanchion, wipe down outside of damper. Set damper aside.
  7. Unscrew the air chamber fill cap. Put a rag over the Schrader valve to catch spray and let all the air out.
  8. As in Step 4, unscrew the nut from the bottom and tap to free things up.
  9. Remove the top cap from the air chamber leg, remove and set aside.
  10. Pull the uppers and lowers apart.
  11. Push the air spring out of the upper. Wipe down parts, set aside.
  12. Replace wipers and foam rings if desired. For this oil change I did not swap the seals as they looked good, but I did clean and re-oil the foam rings. These can easily be removed with tweezers.
  13. Grease the threads at the top of the air chamber with Slick Honey.
  14. Push the air spring back into the air chamber upper from the top. Ensure that the threaded bit sticks out the bottom.
  15. Put the uppers and lowers back together. Push them together far enough so that the threaded end of the air spring is visible through the hole in the lower, but not seated.
  16. Pour the appropriate amount of oil (see the Oil Volumes chart) for the spring-side oil bath into hole. For the 2013 32 Float 29″ 80-100 (O/C CTD damper) fork this is 30 mL.
  17. Push the air spring in further and compress the fork to push the threaded rod out the hole. Put the crush washer and nut back on the bottom of the fork leg. Torque to 50 in-lb.
  18. Pour 5 mL of Float Fluid (one packet) into the upper part of the air chamber.
  19. Put the air chamber top cap back on, torque to 220 in-lb.
  20. Grease the threads at the top of the damper side and reinstall the damper, torquing to 220 in-lb.
  21. Oil now needs to be added into the hole at the bottom of the damper side, as it was on the spring side. Manually compress the fork slightly to push the rod from the damper in and provide space for the oil to flow.
  22. Pour the appropriate of oil for the damper-side oil bath into the hole. For the 2013 32 Float 29″ 80-100 (O/C CTD damper) fork this is 30 mL.
  23. Manually compress the fork so the threaded rod on the bottom of the damper is sticking out of the hole. Be careful not to spill any oil.
  24. Put the crush washer and nut back on the bottom of the fork leg, torque to 50 in-lb.
  25. Add the appropriate amount of air to the air chamber. Wipe down the fork and check for leaks.
  26. Reinstall the fork and set it back up. You’re done.

The following two drawings show the CTD VCT damper, which helps explain how the damper side of the fork is put together. Note that there are two types of the CTD damper which may be found in this fork: the original one and the VCT version. According to FOX the VCT damper can be identified by vent holes around the top, as seen in these images:

The variant of the damper does not matter for the aforementioned procedure, but if the damper oil is to be replaced then this changes the amount of oil needed. The non-VCT damper uses 74 mL while the VCT damper uses 69 mL. I found out about this when I called FOX to ask about the disparity between the damper oil volume on the Oil Volumes chart and the Subassemblies image. I was told that the Oil Volumes chart was likely made off of the original version of the damper and the VCT damper (which is identifiable by the vent holes) volumes are as shown on the drawing.

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