Category: making things

This is a JAE D03 connector used for Atari SIO, pulled from the Okidata printer controller mentioned earlier. I used this to draw a part footprint for SIO connectors and so far this has worked out well. A couple minor adjustments have been made, but the original drawing is still accurate.

Today I received a few connectors I had ordered from B & C ComputerVisions and while they ended up being a slightly different type (side by side photos here) the footprint will work for these as well. Additionally, I pulled open all of the Atari hardware I have here and found that all the SIO connectors seemed to be one of these two types.

The Japanese-made hardware (1010 and 1027) had the thick-based JAE D03 connectors and the other stuff (1050 from Singapore and 800XL from Hong Kong) had some clone of the thin-based part. I had to adjust the outline slightly because the thin based parts have a somewhat larger footprint, but this wasn’t a big deal as the pads all matched.

I was a bit disappointed to find out that the parts from B & C ComputerVisions are pulls, complete with slightly bent / solder-y pins and dirt on them but they washed up nicely and should be fine to use.

For reference, here’s the four different (two types) of SIO connectors I’d found, taken from this post that I made at AtariAge asking if anyone knows of any different part styles:

JAE D03: In all the Japanese-made Atari hardware I have. Thick base, well made. Held down with self-tapping screws or riveted in place. (Photo)
MX 7514-4-13: Received from B & C ComputerVisions when I ordered two connectors. I expected them to be new, but they are very obviously pulls (dirty parts / slightly bent pins / solder on pins). (Photo)
CO12995 5-82-4 MEC-5: Inside a Hong Kong-made 800XL. Appears identical to the MX 7514-4-13. Riveted in place. (Photo)
UNKNOWN: Connector similar to the previous two, in a Singapore-made 1050. I could read TAIWAN on the back, but while I could ensure it’s not the same as the part in the 800XL I couldn’t make out the rest of the part numbers. Held down to the PCB only by the 15 pins and nothing in the larger holes. (Photo)

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Here is the first draft of the front panel for the SDrive NUXX. Yes, I’m trying to make it as 80s / cheesey as possible while still looking decent. Today I received an order from Digi-Key and validated the footprints from all the received parts against a print of the PCB, and everything looks good. Here is a photo of the SD slot sitting on a print, which I think looks rather nifty. I also spent some time trying out the LEDs (Image 1 · Image 2) to ensure that their brightness sufficient and even enough.

Here is an image of the rear panel, including the relatively massive cutout for the SIO connector. Hopefully it won’t be much longer before I get my hands on some more SIO connectors, can validate their footprints / sizing, and then order up the prototype PCBs.

Needless to say, I’m getting pretty excited about this project. It’ll be really nice if it works out.

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Today my non-profit license upgrade for CadSoft EAGLE (to version 5) arrived so I was able to begin laying out the PCB for the SDrive NUXX. The first order of parts should arrive later this week, and hopefully by the end of the weekend I’ll be ready to order the prototype run of boards.

(Yes, the main ground plane is missing from that rendering. The small one there is for the built-in AVR programmer.)

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While it may not look like much, this is the first completed draft of the schematic for my rebuild / remake of SDrive. This may not look like much, but attached to every symbol is a footprint for every part which I intend to use in the finished device. All that is left is to validate the part footprints against actual items, lay out the board, give it 20 or 30 sanity checks, then order the prototype PCBs. Yay!

(While the name in that document says SDrive: nuxx Edition the name shall be SDrive NUXX.)

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Not wanting to sit in traffic I decided to stay at work late and poke around with the Atari SIO connectors from an Okidata printer which sent last week. These parts were desoldered earlier in the week and I think I’ve captured their footprint properly. I just hope that the other SIO connectors out there also fit.

Because this footprint was done in CadSoft EAGLE I can’t easily dimension it, so that might make it a little difficult for other people to reuse. Maybe I’ll try and do a DXF of it or something. While measuring it I came across a couple unexpected (for me) things which lead me to believe that it was hand-designed way back when. For example, the overall footprint seems to be 2:1 width:height ratio (1.86″ x .93″), and the pins have a .14″ spacing between each other, with the pins forming equilateral triangles.

(And yes, I will be CC licensing this footprint once I’ve tuned it to fit all the SIO connector variants that I can find.)

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A few months ago I mentioned that I’d like to build an Atari SDrive as an electronics project. Well, one difficulty in doing that was obtaining SIO connectors. Well, thanks to I now possess a controller board from an Okidata printer bearing two SIO ports. Yay! I’ve heard that the Atarimax guy will be selling connectors-only soon, but I’m not sure how true this is, so this will have to do for now.

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Since I’m in a posty mood tonight, have a photo of the smallest thing I’ve soldered to date. It’s nowhere near as small as what some folks I know have done, but I’m pretty happy with it. This part, U1D, is a Texas Instruments TPS2115APW, which handles automatically switching the AMB γ1 between wall and USB power, giving priority to USB whenever it is plugged in.

The package of this part is TSSOP-8, which has 0.65mm between centers of the pins, with the pins being 0.19mm – 0.30mm wide. I soldered it with a Weller WES51 with an ETO tip. Kester 24-6337-6417 (Water Soluble 331 Solder Wire, .025″ dia., Core Size-66 Sn63Pb37) solder was used along with a 2331-zx flux pen. Chemtronics Soder-Wick Rosin SD desoldering braid, in size 3, was used for cleanup.

Soldering was done with the iron set at 700°F. The area was coated with flux, a pad was tinned, more flux was added to that pad, then the part was placed. The iron was then touched to the edge of the pad and the part settled into place. Any slight adjustment would be performed by reheating the pad and moving the part slightly with fingers or a pin, but this wasn’t needed. I then fluxed the legs of the part and very quickly tacked each leg with a bit of solder.

The solder braid was then quickly run across the legs to pull off any extra solder. When washing the PCB after assembly the rosin flux from the desoldering braid was first removed with 99% isopropyl alcohol, then while the board was still wet it was washed with hot water.

(Click here or on the image above for a full res copy of that image.)

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I’m building an AMB γ1 Modular Miniature DAC and as part of this I had to order a number of components from Digi-Key. Unfortunately, one part was missed. As can be seen above the bag was sent, but there was no part in it. At least it was only a $0.21, 0.1μF ceramic cap.

Even if I had received this cap I wouldn’t be done. It seems that I forgot to order some connectors for mating the two boards and screwed up a tiny SOT23 AND gate, so there’s now a couple other parts which I have to (re)order as well. Missing cap (C3U) and AND gate (U2U) can be seen here and the missing pin receptacles here.

On the upside, I had no problems soldering any of the SMT parts. I just put that aforementioned one in the wrong place and didn’t have any facilities for safely desoldering it. At least it only cost $0.40 or so.

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That’s that. x0xb0x #888 is done. Now I just have to sell it.

Part of me hopes that this is the last x0xb0x that I ever build, but not the last 303 clone. More and more ideas have been swimming around my head about making a newer, better version of something similar to, but definitely not, the x0xb0x.

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