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Category: acquired things

CrankBrothers Shoe Shields

After hearing about CrankBrothers Shoe Shields from my friend Erik I decided to give them a try. There is a fair bit of wear on my shoes (photo) from the Eggbeater pedals that I use and these thin metal plates should head this off and keep the shoes functional for even longer. Priced at $10.99/pair (at the local ACF) it wasn’t worth trying to make my own, as I don’t have a ready source of stainless steel nor an easy way to make similar cuts.

When the replacement pedals (Eggbeater SLs – photo) for my failed Eggbeater MXRs arrived today I decided that while fitting them to the bike I’d also replace the cleats and fit the Shoe Shields. While new pedals and cleats will normally feel a bit nicer, the addition of the Shoe Shields and their smoothing out the bottom of the shoe to better-than-new condition made clipping and unclipping during a test ride feel wonderful. While I imagine they’ll stand up to wear, it’ll be interesting to see just how long they last.

If you’d like to see more photos of them, including the packaging, install directions, thickness, and detail of the materials used, check out my CrankBrothers Shoe Shields album.

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Pretty, Pretty Metal

With today’s arrival of a Thomson X4 stem the handle bar on my new bike is now secured properly with a really wonderful looking stem. Well-machined parts are really beautiful. The stem also feels to be the right length and the black stem cap looks really good. And it’s made in the US! (Here’s a photo of the stem itself, just sitting on the workbench.)

The order that I’d placed with King Cage for some friends and I also arrived today (photo). In this order is a Iris cage, which is of a slightly different design than the standard water bottle cage. I’d purchased it for use with the previously mentioned Klean Kanteen, but it appears that the side loops don’t reach up to the shoulder of the bottle, so it’s only held in with friction (photo). I hope this isn’t a problem, but if it is I can always fall back on using a normal-ish bottle, which the Iris does hold quite securely around the indentation (photo). Or, worst case, I’ve got a spare regular King Cage-brand cage.

Now to wait for the pedals (should have shipped Monday) and the bike should be complete. I’ve also ordered a rather unique handlebar (Ragley Carnegie’s Bar) to try, but I’m not sure if I’ll fit that prior to the first single track ride this spring or not.

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Google Nexus One!

With Google’s release of the Nexus One it worked out very well for me to give my G1 to Danielle and pick up a Nexus One for myself. Thus far I’m quite happy with this phone. The AMOLED is absolutely outstanding and the phone is simply faster overall; the occasional quirky slowdowns when using many apps at once are gone.

It even comes with a cute logo’d neoprene case, as seen here!

I still have some service plan shuffling to do, including moving myself to an employee discount plan (via my workplace) and possibly another service plan. While I am out of contract and should be able to move plans at will, it appears that T-Mobile has a $35 fee to change plans via their website and I don’t want to pay that. We’ll see how that goes… Until then, the phone still works great, just like my old G1 but even better.

(Photographing a phone with active screen and having both parts look nice together is a very difficult task. More photos of the phone unboxing can be found here. I’m not bothering with measurement / thickness / whatever shots, as those are thoroughly addressed elsewhere.)

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Defective FSA OS-190 Stem

 

 

 

 

While working on my new bike I realized that a slightly shorter stem would be good, so I ordered an FSA OS-190 from Price Point. When the box of parts arrived it had been opened (photo), but as the thread locking compound on the screws was unmarred and there were no marks on the stem it appeared to be brand new. Unfortunately, after installing it I found a small crack in the stem cap, right near one of the bolts. Here is a photo of the stem on my new bike, with an arrow pointing to the cracked area.

Having torqued the stem bolts (cap and steerer) to FSA’s published 78 inch-pounds (FSA’s Stem and Post Torque Specs – PDF) I don’t believe this was caused by me during installation. This is also a particularly inopportune place to have a crack, as it could easily lead to stem/bar failure, which would likely result in a pretty bad crash. Even though it was relatively cheap and looks good on the bike when I request to return the item to Price Point I’m tempted to get a different stem, as I don’t want to risk there having been a bad batch.

Currently I’m thinking of a Thomson Elite X4, but now I have to decide on 0° or 10° rise. The aforementioned FSA is 6°, so 10° shouldn’t be too different…

UPDATE: Thinking about it, I wonder if follwing the FSA directions, which I followed, to “[l]ightly grease the bolt threads and under bolt heads” caused the problem. It’s my understanding that greased fasteners, particularly under the heads, are easy to inadvertently over torque, even with a wrench. This is because the fastener slips along much more than normal, and doesn’t provide the resistance that the torque wrench measures.

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Debadged Klean Kanteen

My sister got me a an 18oz. plain stainless steel Klean Kanteen Classic for Christmas, along with a Sport Cap 2.0. This will eventually be fit to my new bike with a stainless steel King Cage Iris for holding drinkable things (water, HEED, juice, etc) while biking. Being made of stainless steel the cage won’t leave any marks (save for scratches which can be polished out as needed) on the bottle, and it should look nice for years. It’ll also be easy to scrub out, should any unexpected funk develop.

Not being fond of having too many logos on things I removed the Klean Kanteen branding from the bottle with a No. 96 Scotch Brite pad, whose grit perfectly matched the existing finish of the bottle. A solid rubbing over the logos and a quick wash with a bit of soap and water later and the bottle is now nice and plain, ready to match the logo-free bottle cage.

I’ve been using the bottle and sport cap to drink from while writing this post and it’s really quite nice to drink from. With a silicone check valve on the top to let in air while drinking liquid flows quite quickly. The use of this check valve means that its not completely leakproof, but it should be sufficient for bike riding when the bottle is generally kept upright in a cage.

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Acquired in Trade: WTB Laser V

Through a very timely trade with someone on the MMBA Forum I was able to swap my ill-fitting WTB Rocket V for this new and (very? overly?) shiny WTB Laser V. I’d already ordered a Laser V to try out, but unless this one’s appearance ends up being beyond reproach, I think I’ll be returning it. As can be seen here the chrome and yellow bits aren’t too terrible when taken in context with the yellow bits on the computer and the various silver things on the bar.

Being cloth the cover of this one is also a bit rougher than I’m accustomed to, but that should be okay for now. If it’s not there’s always plenty of other options. At least this one will only cost the $7 or so to ship back the unwanted saddle when it arrives.

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UHMW Polyethylene Tape for Cable Rub and Chainstay Protection

 

 

 

 

I’ve had little luck finding products to protect bicycle frames against chain slap (on the chainstay) and cable rub on the frame itself. As illustrated here on the Bianchi D.I.S.S. cable rub can be quite ugly, and chain slap can lead to paint chips on the chainstay. After a bit of research I found McMaster-Carr part number 76445A764, a 5 yard long, 2″ wide roll of 0.0115″ thick Ultra High Molecular weight polyethylene (UHMW / Wikipedia article) tape with a self-adhesive backing. Selling for $17.85, this translucent material is commonly used to make slick abrasion-resistant surfaces, so I figured it would work well protecting bicycle surfaces from rub wear.

The roll of tape arrived today, so I devised some abrasion and impact tests which would replicate wear conditions found on bicycles along with testing removability of the tape and its acrylic adhesive.

These five tests, two impact and three abrasion, are as follows. All surfaces cleaned with 99% isopropyl alcohol prior to UHMW tape adhesion:

Impact Test #1

Scenario: Tape applied to curved edge of clear powder coated steel and hit with metal objects such as file handles, tweezer handles, and a chain whip.
Result: Tape dented, no damage to surface below. Tape shown to be deformed by impacts but did not pull away from surface.
Photos: Dented Tape · Undamaged Surface

Abrasion Test #1

Scenario: Tape applied to curved edge of clear powder coated steel and abraded with small and medium fine metal files.
Result: Tape abraded, no damage to surface below. Sharper cutting with the corner of a file may have pierced the tape and damaged the finish below.
Photos: Abraded Tape · Undamaged Surface

Impact Test #2

Scenario: Painted aluminum panel with tape applied to a portion of it. To each of the protected and control surfaces the handle end of large file is dropped 20 times in a space the size of a dime and a metal rod is set in place and hammered gently with a metal bar for 10 impacts.
Result: Small metal nub on metal rod pierced the tape and damaged the metal. No other visible damage.
Photos: Bare Metal Control Surface · Taped With Impact Marks · Surface Below Tape Showing No Damage

Abrasion Test #2

Scenario: Brush made from Jagwire cable housing is placed in an electric drill. Brush is run for 45 seconds against each of the protected and control surfaces on painted aluminum panel.
Result: Severe damage to control surface, much less damage to taped area, occurring only after brush wore through tape.
Photos: Jagwire Brush · Control and Taped Surfaces After Brushing · Control and Taped Surfaces with Tape Removed

Abrasion Test #3

Scenario: Painted aluminum panel is bent, tape is used to protect half of the bend. Wire wheel is run for 45 seconds over both the protected and unprotected areas, simultaneously.
Result: Severe damage to unprotected area resulting in removal of paint and erosion of aluminum. Taped area is undamaged.
Photos: Wire Wheel and Test Surface · Control and Taped Surfaces After Brushing · Control and Taped Surfaces with Tape Removed

This tape was also relatively easy to remove from both the powder coated steel and painted aluminum surfaces. It sticks solidly in place, but picking at one corner of the UHMW tape with a fingernail will lift it and allow it to be pulled off the surface. Some adhesive residue was occasionally left behind, but it was not difficult to clean up with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked paper towel.

With these tests complete I feel that this UHMW tape will work wonderfully as a product to protect against bicycle frame damage due to cable rub and chain slap. Lacking logos and being translucent white it should be fit nicely on most frames. The tape is easily cut with scissors or a sharp razor blade and conforms nicely to simple curved surfaces. More complex surfaces such as joints should be possible to cover with some smart trimming of the tape.

While protecting the frame it will not deaden the sound of chain slap much, so it may be desirable to use some manner of rubber chainstay protector if one wishes to cut down on both noise and wear. As done previously I’ll likely continue making chainstay protectors from old tubes, or perhaps with bits of old tire as Trail’s Edge Cyclery does.

If you would like to see all of the photos from this series, please look here in the UHMW Tape album.

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Let’s Advertise Like It’s 2001

A new X10.com-branded X10-speaking appliance module has been installed along with my old receiver for switching the light behind my iMac. It’s now much nicer, as I can turn the light on and off without reaching behind or under the desk. Now I just need to wait for Monoprice to get a stock of the short USB cables so I can order them along with a bunch of other stuff to finish the office wiring.

Yes, this is the infamous X10 Wireless Technologies with the terrible popup/popunder banner ads that came to embody the irritation of online advertising. Thankfully I was able to find the devices on eBay from Big John’s Place out of northern Illinois.

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Blue Light Special

Here’s a photo of my desk from a few minutes ago, after fitting a light behind the iMac. Taking a cue from home theater stuff where placing a dim light behind a TV provides nice ambient light and increases apparent contrast in the display, I fitted a 9W daylight colored compact fluorescent light behind the display on a cheap clip-on light. This makes a nice glow behind the monitor and on the white ceiling which provides enough light for computer and peripherial use, but is dim enough to make for comfortable evening working. This light will eventually be switched using an X10 appliance switch, just as the normal desk lamp is, but these devices haven’t been received yet. Thanks to eBay they were cheap and should be here in a week or so.

Beneath the iMac you may notice the Millet Hybrid Maxed headphone amp which I built last year. It is connected to the AMB γ1 DAC which sits nicely on the Twelve South BackPack. Audio output for non-system sounds are switched from the main speakers to the DAC (and thus the headphones) as needed using Rogue Amoeba’s SoundSource. This works out well for when Danielle and I are both at our desks with audio playing, as respective use of headphones keeps us from driving each other insane. A few new cables are needed to sort out the connections without a rat’s nest, but these are on back order and likely won’t be here until the beginning of next year.

All in all, this is shaping up to be a nice workspace. The iMac is doing everything asked of it with gusto, the display is excellent, and the overall sound level in my office is down to profanely low levels. This is very nice.

The lamp is a cheap Home Depot 5000K lamp with a rather poor CRI. It is not appropriate for photographic or color-critical work, but it’s just fine for room illumination, particularly indirect illumination bouncing off of a blue-painted wall.

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