Three days after defrosting my freezer to get the whole refrigerator working Danielle noticed that the fridge was no longer cold. The evening after Danielle rushed most of the food stores over to my parents house I set out to try and diagnose the fridge. After I’d spent a few hours fruitlessly looking it over without any documentation I decided that the best thing to do would be to call a repair person. I normally don’t like doing this, but not having a fridge makes things somewhat difficult, and it likely would have taken a few more days for me to figure out what was wrong.
Doc’s Appliance Service (warning: auto-playing video) came out to do the repair and $210.21† later the relay on the compressor was replaced with a new, compatible (but non drop-in) replacement that required cutting the wiring harness to install. As this was the only part the repair person had readily available it was the only choice to get the repair done at that time. While talking to the repair guy (who was quite friendly) afterward and detailing everything I’d looked into, he showed me that Maytag actually ships block diagrams and technical troubleshooting guides with each fridge, sticking them to the bottom of the fridge in a small plastic bag, folded up to about the same size as a deck of playing cards.
I wish that I’d known about this diagram before calling, because that would have allowed me to do all the troubleshooting myself, including finding the failed relay. It also would have saved me the time spent looking at the fridge’s main control board for issues, as the automatic diagnostics would have eliminated the control board and other items that I fiddled with. I would also have then been able to order part 67005560 from Sears for $27.33 and do the replacement myself for 13% of the cost.
In the end I suspect that the relay was failing, keeping the compressor on long after it should have, resulting in the coil freezing up. It’s even possible that the fridge had been running near non-stop for the last few weeks. Turning the fridge off for a while and then putting it back in normal duty cycle then likely caused the relay to fail completely, after which it no would cool. If you’d like to see more photos of the failed relay, part 3ARR65P4E3A6, they can be found here: Failed Fridge Relay (3ARR65P4E3A6).
†$69.95 diagnostics charge, $80 labor, $56.85 in parts, and $3.41 in sales tax.
+1 !!! Thanks SO MUCH for posting these pics!!!! I was convinced I had a frozen compressor, but it was actually this little bugger. I even saw the same melted plastic, but thought it was an intentional part of the manufacturing. When I tested it, this part was passing line voltage like it’s supposed to! And I’d even hear a ‘click’ after a minute or so of the compressor not running, and thought it was this relay opening up (it’s an overload protector after all). I guess what I was hearing was the thermal cutout inside the compressor. I realized it might be this part when I shook it and heard it rattling, that’s when I googled the # on the side, and found your blog. (BTW, it didn’t rattle when I first removed it). $60 for the part in my local repair shop, sorry you spent so much to learn it yourself. But I really do appreciate your efforts!!! Thanks again :)
Kyle B: No problem, I’m glad to hear it helped. I’d run through a bunch of troubleshooting myself at first too and couldn’t find anything… I wonder if this model of relay fails a little more than typical? How old was your fridge? Mine was only about five years old, I think…