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Category: making things

Syringes are Useful

I’m really glad that we keep syringes and hypodermic needles around the house. The oyster mushrooms that are growing in the basement have stagnated and somewhat dried out, and I think that this is caused by the growth media drying out. Having a 60cc syringe and a 19 gauge needle sitting around I figured the easiest way to get water into the media without breaking open the plastic surrounding it was to inject it with water. A few syringe-fulls later and the media was quite a bit heavier, so hopefully the mushrooms will now grow properly.

These 60cc syringes have also been quite useful for putting Stan’s No Tubes Sealant in bicycle tires, as the Luer taper fitting fits very nicely over a Presta valve stem with the core removed.

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The New MMBA Trail Guide

I’ve been working on much of the behind-the-scenes stuff for the Michigan Mountain Biking Association (MMBA) website for a few years now. This started with a group of us moving from a broken phpBB2-based site to a Joomla site and a phpBB3 forum. After a couple of years the Joomla site was replaced with the more manageable and updatable WordPress.

Back when on Joomla there was a decent page that presented a Trail Guide that Rob Ritzenhein had built for Joomla which was a searchable list of mountain biking trails within the state along with a ZIP code-based proximity search. With the move to WordPress I had to drop this searchable trail guide and replaced it with a basic, text-based list that had been generated off of the old trail data. After two mis-starts and incomplete attempts to find a replacement during 2012, I was a bit concerned that I wasn’t going to have much luck finding someone who was able to write such a guide.

Out of the blue in late January 2013 I received email from a guy named Jeff Lau who said (in much more polite words) that our existing guide sucks and that he’d like to have a go at making something better. He was very right, and after he showed a very promising proof of concept I was really impressed, so he and I met up and things got rolling. Fast forward a couple weeks and he had software nearly ready to go. I was able to help out with some graphics stuff (made my first sprite sheet) and get the old trail data adapted to the new format and loaded into the site, and get a bunch of interested volunteers to proof and submit updates to the data. Following a few rounds of testing and small tweaks it was ready to release.

Last night Jeff and I were able to launch the site publicly, and thus far it’s been very well received. The guide is no longer an impenetrable wall of text, but instead a dynamic, flowing, zoomable Google-based map paired with a list of trails and their details which simply feels nice to use. Updates are easy, done by putting data in an OpenOffice.org Base database and running an SQL query which generates the CSVs, then uploading them to the trail guide’s data directory. Everything seen by the user is client-side JavaScript with the actual data stored in simple CSV files, so it all runs in the user’s browser and requires nothing special on the server.

I’m really impressed with the work that Jeff did in writing the Trail Guide software. He said he wanted to do something, did it, and turned it around very quickly, just in time for spring. The weather is just starting to warm here in Michigan, and getting this kind of guide ready before people look for it is key. I believe that this guide is one of the most important publicly accessible Michigan mountain bike trail advocacy tools that has been put forward in a while.

I strongly believe that one of the best ways to ensure trails remain good for and open to biking is to keep people using them. Once they reach a critical mass they become self-maintaining (users remove much of the deadfall themselves), and the chance of them becoming closed to bikes diminishes because they are well-used and known cycling areas. Giving people a guide to help them find trails increases usage by increasing accessibility.

This cost of this guide came in at a cost of about 120 hours of Jeff’s time, and 40-50 of mine. (While he kept detailed records I did not, but I did have a few 6 hour evenings of researching trails details for accuracy and entering them in the database one at a time.)

The official announcement of the new trail guide can be found here on the MMBA website, and the trail guide itself can be found here: http://mmba.org/trail-guide

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Crooked Maps?

In working on the forthcoming MMBA trail guide data I’ve had to find the lat/lon boundaries for rectangular maps so they can be presented as overlays on a Google Map. In doing this I’ve found that almost all of the Michigan DNR-drawn maps seem slightly crooked compared to what I see in OpenStreetMap. It almost looks as if the designer of the map rotated it slightly so that the north/south roads align with the page border.

When making the Stony Creek and Addison Oaks maps I’d noticed that roads which I’d previously thought of as oriented perfectly north-south or east-west were slightly crooked. Now I’m wondering if there’s something I’m not understanding with regards to map projections in Michigan.

Reading this article from the DNR about map projections I see that Michigan has its own projection system called Michigan State Plane Coordinate System. (More info here at Wikipedia.) So, I’m starting to wonder if there’s something that I’m missing and possibly doing wrong with regards to map making in Michigan. I just don’t know enough to know yet.

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Home Grown Oyster Mushrooms

Danielle’s brother and sister-in-law sent us a kit from Cascadia Mushrooms that promised to grow oyster mushrooms. We’d inadvertently ignored it for a couple weeks, during which time it started growing, so we quickly set to starting it properly. The first harvest of mushrooms was good, but a little bit woody, so we’ll pay much more attention to the second crop which has just started growing.

As seen above, clusters of mushrooms have just barely begun growing, with the largest one comprised of a few primordium now visible. (The scale shown is a millimeter ruler.) I expect that within a week these will be much larger and almost ready to harvest. This time I’ll try to collect them before they turn woody, and if timing works out I’ll try to serve them up with scrambled eggs and toast, just as I ate when Dominic and I were in Brussels.

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Heel Rub Protection for SRAM X0 Crankset

I recently came across a great deal on a 2011 SRAM X0 2×10 crankset; something which should be a drop-in replacement for the X7 crankset that’s slated to come on the bike that I’ve got on order. Being carbon fiber and looking very nice I want to keep them in great shape, so I decided to apply some protective tape to cut down on heel rub and some plastic caps to keep then ends from chipping when hitting rocks.

Race Face’s Crank Boots took care of the end of the crank arms, but for heel rub I turned to my favorite rub protection material, UHMW polyethylene tape. After a few minutes with some masking tape, a marker, and some drawing software I’d made this template which was easily transfered to the tape. As I used some thin (.0045″) tape it was a bit of a hassle to get in place, but hopefully my cleaning routine (glass cleaner followed up with isopropyl alcohol) got the cranks clean enough that the tape won’t begin peeling before I want to remove it.

The applied tape looks a bit milky, but I think that once in place on a bike it’ll be fine. The photo above is worst-case for appearance, as the angled lighting shows all of the slight surface imperfections in the tape. Just as when used for cable rub protection I feel that this super-slippery, strong tape will do a better job of preserving the cranks than the crystal clear polyurethane films that are normally used.

With the peel-off backing still in place the tape only weighed 1g, and with the Crank Boots coming in at 15g for the pair this bit of extra protection won’t add much to the overall weight of the bike. This photo shows the boots and pedals installed, and I’m pretty happy with how it all looks.

Since this crankset is a pretty common style and SRAM doesn’t appear to have changed the molds for their carbon fiber cranksets much recently I hope that quite a few others find this PDF template useful: SRAM XO Crank Arm Protector Template, Designed for 175mm 2011 2×10 X0 GXP Crankset, part number 00.6115.422.070.

Heel rub is when one’s shoe rubs against a bike’s crank arm, wearing off the finish.

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Marty’s Orange 9:ZERO:7 Susitna

This evening, amongst a bunch of other stuff, I had the opportunity to put together most of my friend Marty’s new bike, an orange 9:ZERO:7 Susitna. Named after Alaska’s only area code, 9:ZERO:7 is one of the premier fatbike brands, and one of the few (or only?) mass-availability models that aren’t sold by QBP.

Marty’s bike is mostly stock, but with SRAM XX Grip Shifters and the Gore Ride-On cables they came with, Ergon GP1 grips, a Ritchey carbon bar, Planet Bike bottle cages, some flat pedals that I had laying around, 45NRTH Escalator tires, and some peace sign rim tape that Nick (her husband) set up on the wheels for her. I also added the usual compliment of UHMW tape for cable rub protection to help the frame look nice for a long time to come. (Disclaimer: I didn’t put the wheels/tires together, so the not-aligned logos and valve stem are not my doing. Yes, I acknowledge that is a very pedantic detail.)

As shown it comes in at 32.62 pounds, which is quite respectable for a fatbike where weight wasn’t the priority in the build.

With the orange frame and peace signs the look of this bike just screams Marty, and it should work out very nicely for her. I had a bunch of fun building this, and I hope it serves her well. It’s a really, really great looking bike.

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osm2ai.pl w/ JOSM XML Support

When working up some map stuff and trying to follow my own OSM workflow I ran into a quirk where the osm2ai.pl script wouldn’t deal with OSM XML coming out of JOSM.

Thank to help from a few folks on IRC I now have this updated version of osm2ai.pl available and it will successfully parse files from JOSM.

The root cause of this problem is the script parsing XML by hand, but as I didn’t have the time (or knowledge) to fix the problem by using an XML parser, this hack which deals with differing quote types and extra spacing, was put into place. It works, and I was able to get the map that I promised to someone complete.

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Cute Faces in Holland Ponds

While it is graffiti, I found the faces spray painted on trees in Holland Ponds to be rather cute. I was at the park today collecting GPS data to finish mapping the trails in OpenStreetMap. With the submission of changeset 14903288 the main paths should all be mapped, scenic overlooks pointed out, and the Clinton River shoreline cleaned up to match something recent.

I’m not quite sure how things are working out with my new camera, as it seems that all images I’ve taken thus far are a bit blurry on the left side (when in landscape mode, normal orientation). It can be seen in the photo above and this one of some ice along the river. It’s a good thing that I purchased it from Costco; I can easily return it if there really is a problem.

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GoPro HD Hero 2 Soldering

Steve Kinley with MiSCA was having problems with his GoPro HD Hero 2 camera and set about disassembling it, but in the process inadvertently disconnected the wires from the back side of the internal speaker. Knowing that I’ve done a bit of electronics work he asked if I’d take a look at it, so I did.

In the end I was able to reattach the wires to the speaker, and also fix the other end of one wire which was damaged during the original issue and came off of the PCB during reassembly. This was quite a pain, but it all seems set now. Hopefully it’ll keep working right for him.

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Pelican 1020 Case for Google Nexus 4

For the last few years I’ve been using a Pelican 1050 case to carry my Google Nexus One phone when biking, hiking, mapping, etc. This past Monday I received my new phone, a Google Nexus 4, and set about fitting it into a new case. The Pelican 1020 is the closest fit, but unfortunately it’s just slightly too tall to hold the phone flat inside the case.

Setting the phone at a slight angle allows it to fit nicely in the case, and with the addition of two block of neoprene foam rubber (layered and held into place with contact cement) the phone is soundly secured in the case. The block near the top of the phone holds it from rattling around, and the thicker block near the bottom keeps the phone from sliding around if dropped soundly on its face.

This is not the most elegant solution, but until I can find a better-fitting case it’ll do. I’d love one which allows the phone to nestle in as nicely as the Pelican 1050 did needing just a bit of extra foam, but that’ll take some digging, if they even exist…

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