Press "Enter" to skip to content

Category: cycling

Welcome to the LW Coaching 100 mile Finishers Training plan.

For the last two years I’ve followed the LW Coaching 100 Mile Mountain Bike Race — Finisher Plan for the 12 weeks prior to Lumberjack 100 (LJ). I purchased the TrainingPeaks version of this plan in 2012 and it’s worked well for me, so I’m going to do the same this year. However, there is something about the TrainingPeaks site — maybe it’s the visibility of weeks of stuff-to-do at a time — that feels very daunting.

Today I applied the plan to the 2014 calendar, set to finish on Sunday, June 22, the day after LJ. While the first day of actually doing stuff isn’t until April 1st (this is an LTHR test), just seeing the calendar again is a little intimidating. However, it means that nice bicycling weather shouldn’t be too far away… Even if it is structured and training, I tend to really enjoy the rides. Here’s to that continuing this year.

Leave a Comment

Another Elegant Cadence Sensor Magnet Option

I’m apparently on a quest to find ideal neodymium magnets for triggering the cadence side of ANT+ speed/cadence sensors such as the Garmin GSC-10 and Wahoo Cycling Speed/Cadence Sensor. I’d previously tried wide/thin (10mm wide, various thickness) magnets such as the one seen here on the Salsa El Mariachi Ti which sit on the end of the pedal spindle. This works well on the El Mariachi Ti where the crank boot supports it from the side, but on bare cranks it’s not difficult to knock the magnet off. My friend Jeremy has lost at least one magnet this way.

A few days ago I received some 8mm x 10mm (diameter x height) neodymium magnet cylinders via eBay and these seem like an even better solution. On Crank Brothers pedals with 8mm hex sockets in the end of the spindle, these magnets slide snugly into the 8mm hole, with a bit over 2mm poking out. This works great for triggering the reed switch inside the cadence sensor, and unlike other magnets which simply stuck to the end of the spindle, roughly 75% of the magnet is inside of the pedal so it won’t be possible to knock this one off.

Removing the magnet as needed is pretty easy, too. Because there is no flat surface at the bottom of the hex socket the magnet is relatively easy to remove. It can easily be pulled out with another magnet, by sticking a flat piece of steel to the top, or grasped firmly (say, with pliers or some strong finger tips) and slid out. While getting to this fastener outside of a shop isn’t usually needed, it’s good to have the option.

Leave a Comment

New Helmet Pads for Giro Xar

After ~2 years (and maybe four months of need) I finally replaced the pads on my daytime helmet†, a Giro Xar. I’ve been quite happy with this helmet, and it’s done well for me, but the soft pads inside were soundly compacted and some parts were starting to delaminate. This meant that there would be large lumps inside the helmet if I didn’t put it on very carefully.

At $4.99/set for the pads I should have done this a while ago. The replacement is as simple as pulling out the old pads and sticking the new ones to the velcro.

† At night I wear my old helmet, a Giro Phase. This one isn’t quite as comfortable as the Xar, so I keep a light mount on top and use it mostly at night. It’s also a backup in case something happens to the Xar.

1 Comment

Wahoo Cycling Speed/Candence Sensor for Salsa Vaya

The Salsa Vaya (and hopefully the forthcoming Motorless City bike) has the rear disc brake cable run along the top of the chain stay, which means the Garmin GSC-10 (Speed/Cadence Bike Sensor) cannot cleanly fit on the bike (photo). To work around this I picked up the Wahoo Cycling Speed/Cadence Sensor (a compatible ANT+ device) and thus far it seems like it’ll work just fine. I had no problems hanging both sensors below the chainstay, and my Garmin Edge 510 quickly picked up the sensor and was able to get both wheel rotation and cadence data from it.

This setup isn’t as attractive as Garmin’s single unit, and the need to double the cable back on itself looks a bit sloppy, but it does offer more flexibility and overall it should work out fine. I was also a bit disappointed that it doesn’t feature a Garmin unit-like test button/LED which makes setup super easy. It’s a bit higher priced than the Garmin sensor, so it’d be nice if it was at least identical feature-wise. It’s also a bit awkward how the entire sensor body needs to be pivoted in towards the spokes instead of a small/discrete arm, but I do think it’ll work out fine.

Since this was a test mounting I was a bit careless with the cable ties and didn’t peel the adhesive pads off of the cadence sensor, making for sloppy work. I intend to leave this (with its ugly, temporary fittings) in place for a month or so, and then hopefully after that it’ll be in place on the Motorless City bike.

Leave a Comment

New Trail Map of Bald Mountain Recreation Area – North Unit

This morning I’d originally planned on going for a ride in the currently-active snowstorm, but I started working on a project that I’d wanted to complete for a while, and this evening I completed it: a CRAMBA-IMBA map of Bald Mountain Recreation Area – North Unit. Home to some gently rolling, old-style trails built with cross country skiing in mind it’s not very challenging, but this is one of my favorite mountain bike trails in the area.

Over the last few slow speed wintertime rides there I’d collected the GPS data I was lacking, put it into OpenStreetMap today, cleaned up the existing data, and followed my mapping workflow to create this map. It has a fair bit more detail than the official park map, showing some of the unofficial but well used connector trails, colloquial names for some areas, and a bit more context. It’s what I personally would want for a mountain bike centric map of the trail.

So, what to map next… I’d like to do a CRAMBA-IMBA map of Pontiac Lake Recreation Area, but I’ll need to spend more time riding and exploring there before that’s feasible. I’m familiar with the trails, but not familiar enough with the park to do a proper map. I also want to update the Bloomer Park map to get something that better matches the style of the other maps. But, for now, I’m glad that this got done. I feel like I’ve accomplished something.

One can see this map overlaid on Google Maps, along everything else in the MMBA Trail Guide here: link.

Leave a Comment

Brake Lever Insulation for Winter

Riding a bicycle in winter is made easier by insulating one’s body from the metal frame, which acts as a heatsink pulling away warmth. Bicycle grips, saddle, and boots do this fairly well, but metal brake levers can quickly chill one’s fingers even with gloves on. I’d looked into some carbon fiber brakes such as the Tektro MT5.0 on the Mukluk, but $50+ seemed like a lot to spent for just a bit of extra insulation.

Earlier today I came across this post on MTBR in a thread about insulated brake levers which suggested using some heatshrink tubing to insulate the blade itself, so I’ve decided to give that a go. This was pretty easy to do, and while there are a couple slightly visible high spots and subtle wrinkles the curved part where my finger goes is smooth, and it seems to feel good.

I’ll give this a go tomorrow and see how it works out, but just basic experimentation in the basement is showing it to be warmer than the bare metal lever. Now if I could only find something to do about the metal clamp at the end of the Ergon grips…

UPDATE: After a 2+ hour ride in the snow at Bald Mountain I’m going to declare this a success. The brake lever never once felt cold, I had to consciously try to feel for a differing texture, and things just worked.

2 Comments

RAL K7 Colour Fan Deck

So that I may have proper samples for choosing a color for the forthcoming Motorless Bicycle Company frame, Rodney loaned me his RAL K7 Colour Fan Deck, 2012 edition, that contains samples of colors as used by many powder coaters. These are tremendously useful, as they allow one to see the actual color instead of a prone-to-misinterpretation (not to mention emissive vs. reflective) representation.

Thus far I’m not sure what color I want the frame to be, but I’m thinking that RAL 2004 (Pure orange) or RAL 2008 (Bright red orange) may do nicely if I’m sticking with my original desire for orange. If not that, I may consider a brilliant pink, maybe like RAL 4010 (Telemagenta) or RAL 4003 (Heather violet). I could see one of those oranges looking great with a bit of flake/sparkle to it as well.

Leave a Comment

Not-Quite-Clean Hydration Pack Zippers

I periodically wash my Deuter Race Air Lite hydration pack because riding causes heavy sweat buildup on the straps and zippers, eventually getting to the point where the zippers are hard to actuate. I washed it a few days ago by soaking it in a sink of hot water and sodium percarbonate (powdered OxiClean) by periodically agitating it and letting it sit overnight. This works very well, but I forgot one important step: actuating the zippers. The result is that after drying there are still some sweat deposits where the zippers had been, as seen above.

As a result the zippers are still difficult to move in these positions, so I’ll have to soak it again another day this week. Oh well, at least its winter time and I’m not using the bag on a near daily basis as I had been during the summer.

Leave a Comment

34×20 for Ray’s MTB

After our trip down to Ray’s MTB in Cleveland on Monday, Rodney loaned me a 20T Niner cog for the El Mariachi. For the riding down there I’d left my typical 34×19 setup on the bike, but a couple of the climbs were a little tough, particularly when I got stuck behind slower riders. Thankfully this was a rare occurrence, as the park was quite empty that day.

Since it didn’t require removing any links from the chain I figured I’d give this 20T a go and see if it works out better on the planned trip this coming Friday; particularly as I suspect there’ll be more people there that day and more chances to get caught in traffic.

Leave a Comment

For Sale: Titus Racer X 29er

After a lot of consideration I’ve decided to sell my full suspension 29er, the US-made Titus Racer X 29er, in size medium. This is an incredibly nice bike, but I’ve only ridden it three times since last October (2012) when I replaced the headset. Two of these rides were to reassure myself that I still liked it (and I do — it’s a great bike) but I find myself riding my other bikes more often these days. I’ve got enough bikes that this one is now redundant, so I’d like to find it a good home. This is a bad time of the year to list a bike for sale, but I had some time to clean it up so I figured I’d do so anyway.

Photos are available by clicking here or on the image above.

This bike was built out and maintained to be comfortable, rugged, and yet perform extremely well, and did exactly what was intended. It’s also in been well cared for, maintained properly, and is in very good shape, with the only notable mar on the frame being some small scratches on the drive side of the down tube near the letter T, some small scratches acquired when riding at Highland last year and falling over in an uphill rock garden. There’s no cable rub, no chainsuck, and no dents. The fork and rear shock stanchions are free of bushing wear, the frame is really in great shape, and there isn’t even any cable rub due to all the potential rub locations being protected with UHMW polyethylene tape.

When doing a final cleaning for sale I fitted a new chain because the old one was getting near worn; something that nicely matches the super-clean drivetrain. The fork on the bike (a Rock Shox Reba Team) was professionally rebuilt by Rochester Bike Shop a bit over a year ago, and works great. The rear shock, a Fox RP23 had its seals replaced last summer, not long before I stopped riding the bike.

Part of me doesn’t want to get rid of it, but I think it’s time. Along with the bike I’m including the maintenance items that I’d stocked for it, including replacement suspension bushings, WickWerks 32t (middle) chainrings, derailleur hangers, and fork parts. I’ll also toss in a stainless steel bottle cage and swap the Ergon grips for something else matching (Specialized BG Contour, ODI Ruffian, or Salsa Backcountry) if desired.

Please email me at c0nsumer@nuxx.net if you are interested in purchasing this.

Asking price is US$1500 SOLD, and the build is as follows:

Frame: Titus Racer X 29er, Black Anodized, Medium (Geometry), FSR Suspension Licensed from Specialized
Suspension Fork: Rock Shox Reba Team (100mm)
Rear Shock: Fox Racing Shox RP23 w/ High Volume Air Canister (80mm)
Wheels: Velocity Blunt SL Rims and SRAM X9 Hubs
Crankset: FSA V-Drive and WickWerks Chainrings (22T / 32T / 44T)
Front Derailleur: Shimano LX
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9
Shifters: SRAM X9
Cassette: SRAM PG-990 (Red)
Chain: SRAM PC-991 (Brand New)
Brakes: Avid Elixir CR
Brake Rotors: Avid Clean Sweep G3 (160mm Front and Rear)
Cables: Gore Ride-On
Headset: Cane Creek 40 (Nearly New — Only three rides.)
Handlebar: Ragley Carnegie’s Bar
Stem: Ritchey (100mm)
Grips: Ergon GP1 BioKork (Large)
Tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralph 2.25″ (Front), Kenda Small Block Eight 2.1″ (Rear)
Tubeless Setup: Stan’s NoTubes Valves, Tape, and Sealant
Saddle: Specialized Targa
Seatpost: Maxm AM 39 (Two Bolt, Thomson-like)
Seatpost Collar: DKG
Maintenance Parts: 2x WickWerks 32T 104BCD chainrings, 2x replacement derailleur hangers, 3x sets igus suspension bushings, fork decals, fork travel spacer.

Leave a Comment