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Category: around the house

Well Seasoned Cast Iron Pans: Flaxseed Oil

Our house has a couple pieces of cast iron cookware, but it wasn’t seasoned very well and Danielle and I both wanted to change that. After some separate but overlapping research we both found that using flaxseed oil is best for seasoning cast iron cookware due to the high quantities of α-Linolenic acid (ALA) that it contains, as this will polymerize nicely during the seasoning process.

Sheryl Canter’s post Chemistry of Cast Iron Seasoning : A Science-Based How-To was the basis of much of the information used, but I disagree with some of her techniques (eg: applying very thin layers of oil then wiping them off until no longer visible, starting with a cool oven) as being overwrought. Starting with a clean, dry pan (scrubbing to get food residue off and putting in the oven at 200°F to facilitate drying) I instead did the following, using some food-grade refrigerated flaxseed oil purchased at Whole Foods:

  1. Using a piece of a synthetic fabric sock (a square about 2″ x 3″), spread a layer of oil on all surfaces of the pan. It should look oily, but not have any drips, sags, or pools. Be sure it is an even coat. Paper towel (which I tried at first) left lint residue that’d burn into the oil and get stuck in the coating.
  2. Put the pan in your oven and set to 550°F or so. The temperature needs to be above the smoke point of the oil, because during this smoking the ALA will polymerize and thus the cast iron becomes seasoned.
  3. Once the oven indicates it’s at temperature, set a timer for an hour. During this hour the cast iron should reach the oil’s smoke point, which’ll release a bunch of somewhat unpleasant smoke. Vent the house if you can.
  4. After an hour has elapsed, or once the oil is done smoking (you’ll get a better feel for this as you repeat the process) turn off the oven, open it up, and slide out the racks so the cast iron can cool.
  5. When the cast iron has reached a temperature that it can be handled with bare hands, repeat these steps as many times as desired.

To season our cast iron cookware I used seven repetitions of this process. Each took a couple of hours, but most of that time was waiting for the oil to smoke or the cast iron to cool down. The result on one of the pans, a Lodge Wedge Pan that Danielle received for Christmas from my parents, can be seen above. Prior to the flaxseed oil seasoning it had a factory season on it, which was a dull, thin-looking surface that only seemed sufficient to prevent corrosion during shipping. After receiving a proper season the pan was not unlike a used PTFE non-stick surface and quite pleasant to use.

Post-seasoning the cast iron can be easily cleaned with water, a plastic bristled scrub brush, and a gentle plastic scrub pad / sponge that’s safe for non-stick pans. This has easily removed everything we’ve had stuck to the pans and left the season intact.

† While flaxseed oil and linseed oil are the same thing, products labeled as linseed oil are commonly for wood finishing and usually contain drying agents and other things that you probably don’t want in contact with your food. Thus, it’s best to just suck up the seemly-high price of buying food-grade flaxseed oil at a local store knowing that it’ll be safe. Don’t worry, one bottle will last you for a long time; this process does not go through it very quickly.

Other oils could be used, but flaxseed oil will be the most efficient readily available oil due to it’s high ALA content. This portion of the Wikipedia article on α-Linolenic acid listing the ALA content for a number of different oils, showing that flaxseed is around 55%, while canola and soybean (both frequently branded as vegetable oil) are 8% and 10%. If a lower ALA content oil is used, it’ll take longer to build up a thick coating of seasoning (polymerized ALA).

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Stinky Elk Antler

A couple years ago Danielle purchased an Elk antler as a toy / treat for Roxie. While Roxie initially enjoyed it and chewed into one end, she soon lost interest. Today, in an attempt to renew her interest, I cut it in half with a bandsaw. This is one of the stinkiest tasks I’ve performed, as the resulting dust smelled like a strong, meaty, rotten animal smell: exactly the sort of thing Roxie loves. Even wearing a dust respirator some of the smell still crept in, and now the garage smells strongly enough that I can’t walk out there.

Once half was given to her she took a keen interest and began licking the cancellous bone at the center. Hopefully her interest in it will continue and she’ll finish it this time.

(Note the dark-colored rot-like area, perhaps mildew, that had seeped in from the end she first started licking. Or maybe that was the more flavorful bit?)

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Drip Tray for Indoor Plants

We have a number of plants being kept indoors for the winter, one of which is a bay tree. This afternoon Danielle repotted it into something larger to get it ready for spring time, but this new pot didn’t have a drip tray, which makes keeping it on the carpeted living room floor a bit problematic. After heading to a local home improvement store to get a drip tray I found that the offerings there were not satisfactory. A cheap ($2) drip trays was so thin that I’d have been able to tear it, and a thicker one (think soda bottle wall thickness) was $4+.

Instead of either of these I purchased a cheap, store-brand silver plastic bucket and cut off the bottom 4″ to make a different style tray. This was only around $3 and is much, much better than the pre-made trays. I was also able to size it for a narrow gap so that any collected water won’t evaporate too quickly and will serve to keep watering the plant.

I feel a bit wasteful throwing out the plastic from the upper half, but I don’t have much use for a segmented, ridged plastic hoop.

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Failed Bushing Hackery

Danielle’s desk chair began wobbling, and disassembly of the base showed that a nylon bushing had come apart allowing the chair to wobble side to side. The image above shows my attempt to rebuild something like this bushing out of nylon cable ties, but this somewhat failed. The chair no longer wobbles when in the lowest possible position, but it has enough friction that turning is difficult and the hydraulic height adjustment doesn’t work. I suspect the friction of these little cable tie heads is too much for the lift assist.

It’s too bad the low position is a bit too low for Danielle to be comfortable sitting at her desk. Maybe if I’m lucky I can find a replacement bushing, although I don’t see a way to get it installed as the top of the tube for it is crimped to hold it in place. Maybe an entire chair base assembly would be needed.

Oh well, at least it doesn’t wobble any more is usable as a low chair.

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KitchenAid Mixers Contain a Lot of Grease

 

Back in 2001 or so, not long after moving into the place where Danielle and I currently live, I laid my new KitchenAid stand mixer on its side on the floor, and when picking it up I’d found that a bunch of oil had spilled out of the side. This both surprised me and was a pain to clean up, so ever since then I made a point of keeping it upright, with the top in the normal, neutral, ready-to-mix position.

Being careful with it worked fine and the problem was mostly forgotten about until earlier this year when I found more oil leaking out after Danielle had left the head tipped up. It had also begun making some awkward squeaking noises when shutting off, so I knew it was in need of some work. This evening I finally got around to taking it apart.

A YouTube video from eReplacementParts.com got me started, and it wasn’t long before I had the mixer apart and was able to see the problem: there was both grease and oil in the gearbox, and when tipped or tilted from something other than its normal position this oil would slowly leak out. I strongly suspect that my mixer was lubricated with either the beginning or end of a new pack/tube of grease, which could have a goodly layer of oil on it. Or, maybe the grease separated over time. (I suspect the former because of how long ago the original leak occurred…)

I scraped out most of the grease, wiped out the oil, and then cleaned off the seal and put everything back together, putting the grease back inside of the housing and all over the gears so it could do its job.

From what I’m reading on other sites this is not an uncommon problem, and it seems like many KitchenAid mixers eventually need their grease replaced. So much so that the KitchenAid-branded grease is even available on Amazon. I suspect that I’ll be taking this back apart some time in the future to regrease it, but for now at least I’ve been able to stop the dripping oil.

(One strange issue that I ran into with the grease is that it would not clean up using ProGold Pro Towels, but a bit of alcohol worked very nicely.)

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Winter Snow by Streetlight

 

Here’s a photo, looking out my office window early on January 6th, 2014, of the snow that’s fallen. I was bored so I cleared off my car and shoveled the area around it earlier today, but much of this has been covered back up by drifting, blowing snow. It’s really beautiful, but if the next couple days’ forecast for particularly cold weather holds true I’ll likely find it to be a bit much.

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Refilling ProGold Chain Lube Bottles

My preferred bicycle chain lube is ProGold Xtreme (formerly known as Voyager), but I prefer to purchase the larger 16oz. bottle to refill the smaller drip bottles. Pouring chain lube is not something you want to screw up, as it’d be really frustrating to clean up.

To avoid problems I used a T-pin and punched holes in the foil safety cap on the large bottle as seen above. The large hole for pouring is about 3mm x 1mm and the smaller vent is just a simple pinhole. With this setup I can easily pour lube from the large bottle into the smaller ones with little risk of pouring too fast and splashing.

With this setup I’ve even been able to easily refill the ProGold eyedrop-size sample bottles with Xtreme, which is nice because I like to carry one with me when riding.

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Fruit Flies!

The kitchen has a bunch of fruit flies in it, and apparantly they are coming from (or at least feeding on) the hole in the top of this banana. Based on their light color I suspect these are very young fruit flies, so they are probably breeding in there as well.

After sealing it in a zip-top bag I’ve thrown out the remaining bananas, but not after taking the most-rotted upper section and putting it in a pint glass, covering the top with foil, and piercing it with a toothpick (photo). Hopefully this will work nicely as trap for the remaining flies that seem to be lingering in the area. Ten minutes or so have passed since I assembled the makeshift trap and it already contains four flies, so it looks promising.

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New Rubber Stopper Time

After twelve years it is time to get a new rubber stopper for the laundry tub. The current one has begun decaying, and a couple weeks ago when attempting to push it out of the drain with a metal rod I poked a hole in it, destroying its traditional water stopping powers.

Now to find a replacement… Lowe’s was out of 1 1/2″ stoppers when I went there earlier today, and the universal stopper that I purchased doesn’t work. Time to try another store…

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Petrol-Gel as Specialized WaterGate Valve Lubricant

The burst valve design of the Specialized WaterGate lids for their bottles are quite nice, and as one can twist the valve gently to remove it for cleaning they don’t suffer the buildup that plagues CamelBak bottles. However, after a few cycles of removing the valve and washing them the o-rings become dry and the valve is hard to reinsert and doesn’t move very slowly.

I have some Petrol-Gel lubricant for maintaining beer dispensing equipment, so I figured I’d give it a go on these seals. It worked great; a very light application to the o-rings and the inside of the valve seat in the lid restores the original smooth action of the valve. This makes the lid work like new.

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