SELECTING A FORK:
SETTING SAG/AIR PRESSURE AND SPRING RATE:
ADJUSTING REBOUND DAMPING:
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:
BUSHING SERVICE AND REPLACEMENT:
COMPLETE OVERHAUL:
MAINTENANCE:
BEARING REPLACEMENT:
ADDITIONAL WARNINGS AND REGULATIONS:

 

SELECTING A FORK:

Your Racer X frame is designed to be used with a front fork that has either 80mm or 100mm (3.14 -3.93") of travel. Selecting the proper fork will keep the head angle, seat angle, and bottom bracket height at their intended settings.

SETTING SAG/AIR PRESSURE AND SPRING RATE:

When setting up your Racer X, it is important to have the suspension compress slightly (sag) when sitting on the bike. Setting the proper amount of sag will allow the bike to follow the terrain better and maintain proper frame angles. The proper sag setting also determines the air pressure or spring rate so that major adjustments will not be required on the trail.

Follow the steps outlined below: 

1. Place a zip tie around the shock shaft (your shock may already have an o-ring).
2. Slide the tie or o-ring up to the base of the shock body.
3. Sit on the bike with your full weight on the saddle.
4. Look down and make sure the tie is still against the shock body, and then slowly step off the bike.
5. Measure the distance between the shock body and the zip tie/o-ring. The proper measurement should be between 3/8 and 1/2 inch (9.5-12.5mm).
6. Adjust pressure up or down accordingly. Only use a rear shock specific pump, such as those offered by Fox or Risse.
7. Re-check your settings after a few rides. The shock seals will break in and the pressure will need to be adjusted

ADJUSTING REBOUND DAMPING:

The air/oil shock on your Racer X has adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping controls the speed at which the shock returns after an impact. The amount of damping needed will vary, depending on the air pressure you are running. The optimum situation is to have the shock rebound as quickly as possible without bucking you off the saddle or causing the rear wheel to come off the ground. Too much rebound damping will cause the suspension to pack up by not allowing the rear end to return quick enough for the next bump.

To properly set the damping, start with the rebound clicker all the way out (counter clockwise). As you ride and get a feel for how the rear end is reacting, you can dial the clicker in (more damping). Adjusting two clicks at a time will make it easier to notice the difference between settings. As a general rule, it will take several rides for the seals and pivots on your frame to fully break in. New seals create more friction and will artificially increase the amount of rebound damping. You may have to make minor adjustments and increase the amount of rebound damping by a click or two as the seals and pivots break in.

After you find a comfortable setting, we suggest you write down how many clicks the shock is set at. It will only be a matter of time before an inquisitive friend says, "What does this do?" as he turns your rebound adjuster to some unknown setting.

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:

Mountain bikes are amazing products. We know of no other off road racing machine that can put up with the kind of abuse a mountain bike takes with relatively little service. None the less, it has once been said, "if you take care of your equipment, your equipment will take care of you!" This is why your Racer X frame is designed to be easy to adjust and service. We highly suggest that you take the time to check all your equipment before every ride.

You will need the following tools:

• 4, 5, 6 and 8mm allen wrenches
• 10mm wrench
• Crank wrench and puller

It is very important to check every nut and bolt on your frame after the first couple of rides. Bushings and pivots will break-in and may loosen or develop play. The most important areas to check after the first ride are the 8mm main pivot bolt and the 4mm Horst-Link bolts.

The main pivot on your Racer X uses sealed cartridge bearings and should require little or no maintenance. The Horst pivot bushings used on your frame are very durable and do not require constant lubrication.

If, over time, the rear end on your frame develops side play, take the following steps to track down the reason:

1. Check your rear hub bearing adjustment and spoke tension first to make sure your rear wheel is not the culprit.
2. Make sure the 4mm Horst-link bolts are tight.
3. Make sure the 5mm shock eyelet bolt is tight (a small amount of play at the shock itself is normal).
4. Re-check the rear end for play. If there is still play move on to step 4.
5. Remove drive side crank arm.
6. Tighten the 8mm pivot bolt at the lower yoke until there is no play in the lower swingarm. Be careful not to over tighten, a 3 inch allen wrench can generate enough torque to adequately tighten the main pivot bolt. Over-tightening may result in crushed bearings.
7. Re-check the rear end for play. If this has not solved the problem, see BEARING REPLACEMENT.
8. Re-install drive side crank arm.
9. Go Ride!

BUSHING SERVICE AND REPLACEMENT:

The life of the sealed cartridge bearings and Horst pivot bushings on your Racer X frame will vary depending on the type of conditions that you ride in and the way you ride. You should be able to get two or more years out of your Horst pivots if you disassemble them every 6-12 months to clean and re-lube the bushings. We recommend using either Judy Butter^TM, Bull Shot, or White Brothers^TM fork grease when servicing your bushings.

To clean and grease your Horst pivot bushings please use the following steps:

1. Remove your rear wheel.
2. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
3. Slide the dropouts off of the lower swingarm.
4. Remove the Horst link pivot cylinders from inside the bushings.
5. Clean the bushings and pivot cylinders thoroughly. Do not use a citrus type solvent or degreaser. WD-40 and Windex do an excellent job.
6. Lightly grease the insides and faces of the bushings.
7. Follow steps 1-4 in reverse for re-assembly. Use a generous amount of grease or Anti-Seize (Finish Line Ti-Prep) on the 4mm allen bolts before re-assembly.

To replace the Horst pivot bushings and/or cartridge bearings, you will need the following additional tools:

• Plastic Mallet
• Blunt ended punch
• A vice or press with smooth jaws (not serrated) or a short bolt & nut
• A 3/16 allen wrench

If you are already doing a complete overhaul on your bike, it will be easier to completely remove the upper strut from the frame to replace the Horst-link bushings. To remove the upper strut, follow steps 1-24 of COMPLETE OVERHAUL below. If you do not wish to fully disassemble the entire strut, the Horst-link bushings can still be replaced with the help of a friend. Steps 1-18 of SIMPLE MAINTENANCE will walk you through the process.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

• If you do not have a wealth of experience with every aspect of bicycle maintenance and repair, we suggest going to your local shop to have a qualified mechanic replace the bushings/bearings. Bring these instructions with you.
• When removing the bushings, extreme care must be taken not to damage the surfaces which the bushings press into. Take your time with this project. Chances are good that the bushings will not come out easily.
• When setting up your new bike, the rear brakes must not extend past the rear brake arch. (I.E Arch Supremes) Brakes that do extend out past the brake brace will damage the frame and the brakes.

COMPLETE OVERHAUL: - Remove Swingarm to Replace Horst-link Bushings

1. Remove your rear wheel.
2. Remove rear brake and derailleur cables, rear brake, rear derailleur, and chain.
3. Use an 8mm wrench to remove the cantilever studs and a 3/16 allen wrench to remove the two allen bolts which hold the stiffening brace to the seat stays.
4. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
5. Slide the dropouts off of the swingarm.
6. Use a 5mm allen and 10mm wrench to remove the front shock bolt which connects the shock to the tabs on the front triangle.
7. Remove the upper strut from the front triangle.
8. Remove the Horst link pivot pins from the dropouts.
9. Insert the blunt ended punch into the bushing housing on the dropout.
10. Line the punch up with the bushing lip.
11. Tap the punch with your mallet.
12. Move to the opposite side of the bushing and repeat step 4.
13. Tap the bushing in the + pattern as shown so that the bushing slides out straight.
14. Continue in the above order until the bushing is fully removed.
15. Repeat steps 9-13 on the opposite bushing.
16. Lightly oil the new bushings before installation.
17. Hold the seat stay bushing housing between the vice jaws.
18. Position the new bushing against the housing, making sure that the bushing is not cocked. Press only one bushing at a time.
19. Slowly close the vice jaws against the bushing face. Make sure that the bushing is going in straight.
20. Continue closing vice jaws until bushing face is flat against bushing housing.
21. Repeat steps 16-20 for opposite bushing.
22. After the bushings have been replaced, lightly grease the insides and faces of the bushings.
23. Follow steps 1-8 in reverse for re-assembly.

MAINTENANCE: - Replace Horst-link Bushings Without Removing Swingarm (You'll need a friend)

1. Remove your rear wheel.
2. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
3. Slide the dropouts off of the lower swingarm.
4. Remove the Horst link pivot cylinders from inside the bushings.
5. Have a friend hold your swingarm steady.
6. Insert the blunt ended punch into the bushing housing on the dropout.
7. Line the punch up with the bushing lip.
8. Tap the punch with your mallet.
9. Move to the opposite side of the bushing and repeat step 7.
10. Tap the bushing in the + pattern shown above so that the bushing slides out straight.
11. Continue in the above order until the bushing is fully removed.
12. Repeat steps 6-12 on the opposite bushing.
13. Lightly oil the new bushings before installation.
14. Position the new bushing against the housing, making sure that the bushing is not cocked.
15. Use a C-clamp, wood clamp, hand held vice or similar tool to press in the new bushing while your friend continues to hold the upper strut steady. Press only one bushing at a time.
16. Slowly close the vice jaws against the bushing face. Make sure that the bushing is going in straight.
17. Repeat steps 14-16 for opposite bushing.
18. After the bushings have been replaced, lightly grease the insides and faces of the bushings.
19. Follow steps 1-4 in reverse for re-assembly.

BEARING REPLACEMENT:

The main pivot of your Racer-X has been equipped with 4 sealed cartridge bearings that offer a smooth ride and minimal maintenance. Over time, your cartridge bearings may become worn and allow play or cause your rear end to rotate roughly. In this event, we suggest you replace your cartridge bearings according to the following instructions:

1. Remove your rear wheel.
2. Remove the drive side crank arm.
3. Use a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
4. Slide the dropouts off of the lower swingarm.
5. Remove the 8mm main pivot pin. Be ready to catch the 2 washers as the pin is removed.
6. Remove the lower swingarm from the front triangle.
7. Using blunt ended punch, tap out the far set of bearings in the + pattern shown.
8. Tap the other set of bearings out of the frame, taking care not to scar the inside of the frame. Do not attempt to re-use the bearings you've removed, even if they come out intact.
9. Apply a small amount of grease to the outside edge of the new bearings.
10. Using a vice or press, and a friend to hold your frame still, press in the bearings one at a time. Make sure they go in straight and that you're pressing on both the inner and outer races evenly.
11. Install both bearings on one side of the frame.
12. Re-insert the compression sleeve inside the bearing shell.
13. Press the second set of bearings into the frame.
14. Apply grease to the threads, shaft and head of the 8mm pivot pin.

SPECIAL NOTE: If your Racer X has a stainless steel 6mm solid pivot pin instead of an 8mm hollow aluminum pivot pin, it will be necessary to apply blue Loctite^TM to the threads and the head of the main pivot pin instead of grease.

15. Have your friend hold the swingarm up to the front triangle as you align the washer and insert the pin into the drive side of the swingarm.
16. Align the washer on the non-drive side of the swingarm and slide the pin through. A gentle tap with a rubber mallet may be necessary, but take care not to hammer the threads into the swingarm on the other side.
17. Tighten the 8mm main pivot pin until snug. Be careful not to over tighten, a standard 3 inch allen tool can generate enough torque to adequately tighten the main pivot bolt. Over-tightening may result in crushed bearings.
18. Follow steps 1-4 in reverse for re-assembly.

ADDITIONAL WARNINGS AND REGULATIONS:

1. Mountain biking is an inherently dangerous sport. Know your limitations and ride within them. RIDE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
2. Night riding is dangerous. Your Racer-X frame is not supplied with any type of reflective or lighting gear. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND RIDING AT NIGHT WITHOUT THE PROPER GEAR.
3. Your Racer X frame is designed for closed course riding only. To make it street legal it is your responsibility to acquire and install the required reflective and lighting gear outlined by your local municipalities and federal government.
4. Your bike should be assembled only by a certified mechanic.
5. Always wear a helmet and full protective gear while riding.
6. Always support your local bike shop.
7. Have Fun!