SELECTING
A FORK:
SETTING SAG/AIR
PRESSURE AND SPRING RATE:
ADJUSTING REBOUND DAMPING:
MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS:
BUSHING SERVICE AND
REPLACEMENT:
COMPLETE OVERHAUL:
MAINTENANCE:
BEARING REPLACEMENT:
ADDITIONAL WARNINGS
AND REGULATIONS:
-
SELECTING
A FORK:
Your
Racer X frame is designed to be used with a front fork that has
either 80mm or 100mm (3.14 -3.93") of travel. Selecting the proper fork
will keep the head angle, seat angle, and bottom bracket height
at their intended settings.
SETTING
SAG/AIR PRESSURE AND SPRING RATE:
When
setting up your Racer X, it is important to have the suspension
compress slightly (sag) when sitting on the bike. Setting the
proper amount of sag will allow the bike to follow the terrain
better and maintain proper frame angles. The proper sag setting
also determines the air pressure or spring rate so that major
adjustments will not be required on the trail.
- Follow
the steps outlined below:
- Place
a zip tie around the shock shaft (your shock may already
have an o-ring).
- Slide
the tie or o-ring up to the base of the shock body.
- Sit
on the bike with your full weight on the saddle.
- Look
down and make sure the tie is still against the shock
body, and then slowly step off the bike.
- Measure
the distance between the shock body and the zip tie/o-ring.
The proper measurement should be between 3/8 and 1/2 inch
(9.5-12.5mm).
- Adjust
pressure up or down accordingly. Only use a rear shock
specific pump, such as those offered by Fox or Risse.
- Re-check
your settings after a few rides. The shock seals will
break in and the pressure will need to be adjusted
ADJUSTING
REBOUND DAMPING:
The
air/oil shock on your Racer X has adjustable rebound damping.
Rebound damping controls the speed at which the shock returns
after an impact. The amount of damping needed will vary, depending
on the air pressure you are running. The optimum situation is
to have the shock rebound as quickly as possible without bucking
you off the saddle or causing the rear wheel to come off the ground.
Too much rebound damping will cause the suspension to pack up
by not allowing the rear end to return quick enough for the next
bump.
To
properly set the damping, start with the rebound clicker
all the way out (counter clockwise). As you ride and get
a feel for how the rear end is reacting, you can dial the
clicker in (more damping). Adjusting two clicks at a time
will make it easier to notice the difference between settings.
As a general rule, it will take several rides for the seals
and pivots on your frame to fully break in. New seals create
more friction and will artificially increase the amount
of rebound damping. You may have to make minor adjustments
and increase the amount of rebound damping by a click or
two as the seals and pivots break in.
After you find a comfortable setting, we suggest you write
down how many clicks the shock is set at. It will only be
a matter of time before an inquisitive friend says, "What
does this do?" as he turns your rebound adjuster to some
unknown setting.
MAINTENANCE
AND ADJUSTMENTS:
Mountain
bikes are amazing products. We know of no other off road racing
machine that can put up with the kind of abuse a mountain bike
takes with relatively little service. None the less, it has once
been said, "if you take care of your equipment, your equipment
will take care of you!" This is why your Racer X frame is designed
to be easy to adjust and service. We highly suggest that you take
the time to check all your equipment before every ride.
You
will need the following tools:
- 4,
5, 6 and 8mm allen wrenches
- 10mm
wrench
- Crank
wrench and puller
It
is very important to check every nut and bolt on your frame after
the first couple of rides. Bushings and pivots will break-in and
may loosen or develop play. The most important areas to check
after the first ride are the 8mm main pivot bolt and the 4mm Horst-Link
bolts.
The
main pivot on your Racer X uses sealed cartridge bearings and
should require little or no maintenance. The Horst pivot bushings
used on your frame are very durable and do not require constant
lubrication.
If,
over time, the rear end on your frame develops side play, take
the following steps to track down the reason:
- Check
your rear hub bearing adjustment and spoke tension first to
make sure your rear wheel is not the culprit.
- Make
sure the 4mm Horst-link bolts are tight.
- Make
sure the 5mm shock eyelet bolt is tight (a small amount of play
at the shock itself is normal).
- Re-check
the rear end for play. If there is still play move on to step
4.
- Remove
drive side crank arm.
- Tighten
the 8mm pivot bolt at the lower yoke until there is no play
in the lower swingarm. Be careful not to over tighten, a 3 inch
allen wrench can generate enough torque to adequately tighten
the main pivot bolt. Over-tightening may result in crushed bearings.
- Re-check
the rear end for play. If this has not solved the problem, see
BEARING REPLACEMENT.
- Re-install
drive side crank arm.
- Go
Ride!
BUSHING SERVICE AND REPLACEMENT:
The
life of the sealed cartridge bearings and Horst pivot bushings
on your Racer X frame will vary depending on the type of conditions
that you ride in and the way you ride. You should be able to get
two or more years out of your Horst pivots if you disassemble
them every 6-12 months to clean and re-lube the bushings. We recommend
using either Judy ButterTM, Bull Shot, or White BrothersTM fork grease when servicing your bushings.
To
clean and grease your Horst pivot bushings please use the following
steps:
- Remove
your rear wheel.
- Use
a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
- Slide
the dropouts off of the lower swingarm.
- Remove
the Horst link pivot cylinders from inside the bushings.
- Clean
the bushings and pivot cylinders thoroughly. Do not use a citrus
type solvent or degreaser. WD-40 and Windex do an excellent
job.
- Lightly
grease the insides and faces of the bushings.
- Follow
steps 1-4 in reverse for re-assembly. Use a generous amount
of grease or Anti-Seize (Finish Line Ti-Prep) on the 4mm allen
bolts before re-assembly.
To replace the Horst pivot bushings and/or cartridge bearings,
you will need the following additional tools:
- Plastic
Mallet
- Blunt
ended punch
- A
vice or press with smooth jaws (not serrated) or a short bolt
& nut
- A
3/16 allen wrench
If
you are already doing a complete overhaul on your bike, it will
be easier to completely remove the upper strut from the frame
to replace the Horst-link bushings. To remove the upper strut,
follow steps 1-24 of COMPLETE OVERHAUL below. If you do not wish
to fully disassemble the entire strut, the Horst-link bushings
can still be replaced with the help of a friend. Steps 1-18 of
SIMPLE MAINTENANCE will walk you through the process.
IMPORTANT
NOTES:
- If
you do not have a wealth of experience with every aspect of
bicycle maintenance and repair, we suggest going to your local
shop to have a qualified mechanic replace the bushings/bearings.
Bring these instructions with you.
- When
removing the bushings, extreme care must be taken not to damage
the surfaces which the bushings press into. Take your time with
this project. Chances are good that the bushings will not come
out easily.
- When
setting up your new bike, the rear brakes must not extend past
the rear brake arch. (I.E Arch Supremes) Brakes that do extend
out past the brake brace will damage the frame and the brakes.
COMPLETE OVERHAUL: - Remove Swingarm to Replace Horst-link Bushings
- Remove
your rear wheel.
- Remove
rear brake and derailleur cables, rear brake, rear derailleur,
and chain.
- Use
an 8mm wrench to remove the cantilever studs and a 3/16
allen wrench to remove the two allen bolts which hold
the stiffening brace to the seat stays.
- Use
a 4mm allen wrench to remove the two Horst-link bolts.
- Slide
the dropouts off of the swingarm.
- Use
a 5mm allen and 10mm wrench to remove the front shock
bolt which connects the shock to the tabs on the front
triangle.
- Remove
the upper strut from the front triangle.
- Remove
the Horst link pivot pins from the dropouts.
- Insert
the blunt ended punch into the bushing housing on the
dropout.
- Line
the punch up with the bushing lip.
- Tap
the punch with your mallet.
- Move
to the opposite side of the bushing and repeat step 4.
- Tap
the bushing in the + pattern as shown so that the bushing
slides out straight.
- Continue
in the above order until the bushing is fully removed.
- Repeat
steps 9-13 on the opposite bushing.
- Lightly
oil the new bushings before installation.
- Hold
the seat stay bushing housing between the vice jaws.
- Position
the new bushing against the housing, making sure that
the bushing is not cocked. Press only one bushing at a
time.
- Slowly
close the vice jaws against the bushing face. Make sure
that the bushing is going in straight.
- Continue
closing vice jaws until bushing face is flat against bushing
housing.
- Repeat
steps 16-20 for opposite bushing.
- After
the bushings have been replaced, lightly grease the insides
and faces of the bushings.
- Follow
steps 1-8 in reverse for re-assembly.
The
main pivot of your Racer-X has been equipped with 4 sealed
cartridge bearings that offer a smooth ride and minimal maintenance.
Over time, your cartridge bearings may become worn and allow
play or cause your rear end to rotate roughly. In this event,
we suggest you replace your cartridge bearings according to
the following instructions: